New Pond Design - Appreciate your comments
  • taipingnewbietaipingnewbie September 2013
    Posts: 9
    Hi All Sifus,

    I have been diligently following this forum for some time now, with the long held desire to have a koi pond. The opportunity has come about as I am building my house now and I have included a koi pond within the Architect's drawings.
    I have come up with a rough design of my proposed pond. Apologize for the rather rough sketch (attached). Below is my humble draft design. Sincerely hope to receive some pointers or even design changes.

    Main requirements are:
    1. Aesthetically pleasing within the constraints of the space allocated. Concept of the house is " modern contemporary".
    2. As my work consumes a lot of my time, I am trying to build a system that is less time consuming to maintain.

    Design specs :
    1. Pond dimensions : 8 feet (width) x 20 feet (length) X 4-5 feet depth (sloping).

    2. Filter dimensions : 4 feet (width) x 15 feet (length) x 4 feet depth .( 5 chambers in total, with "V-shaped" bottoms , each with bottom drains connected to Dry Chamber.

    3. Tonnage : Main pond , roughly 20 tonnes while the filter chambers are roughly 7 tonnes.

    4. Design of water flow based on " straight flow" from the wall housing the waterfall towards the direct opposite wall.

    5. Pond floor slopes from 4 ft to 5 feet over a length of 20 feet.

    6. 3 bottom drains which are directly opposite the waterfall and pond returns. The bottom drains are 100mm and based on the " Double bottom drainage". The top pipe drains directly in SC while the bottom pipe drain to the Dry Chamber and discharged via " airlift + timer".The reason for this design is for easier maintenance, as most of the solids will be directly pushed towards the dry chamber, ie bypassing the filter chambers.

    7. Two surface skimmers located at 2 corners on the end which has the BDs.

    8. 3 Pond returns ( size ? 2 inches ) below the waterfall, located at 2 feet from pond floor.

    9. Proposed chambers :
    Chamber 1 : SC
    Chamber 2 : Media : ? matala mats
    Chamber 3 : Bacteria house / oysters
    Chamber 4 : Pump, UV
    Chamber 5 : Dry chamber.

    Also seriously considering adding on a Bead filter and a Multicyclone pre-filter which draws water from SC and pumps back to Chamber 2. Reason for doing this is to minimize the amount material used in the mechanical and biological filters, which requires more back-breaking time to maintain. Planning to start off with the bead and pre-filter with minimal amount of material in the main chambers, and with time ( more fish and feeding), may need to use more and more of the filter chambers.

    10. Have not selected the pumps yet but plan to have 2 times total water turnover per hour. With a more powerful pump feeding the 3 pond water returns while a smaller pump servicing the waterfall. Would appreciate recommendations on pumps needed.

    11. Aeration : There will be aeration in the filter chambers but not too sure where to place the aeration in the main pond (please kindly advise ).

    Would truly appreciate your thoughts and comments.

    Thanks in advance

    Post edited by taipingnewbie at 2013-09-23 05:06:19 pm
  • wyinwyin September 2013
    Posts: 78
    Hi Taipingnewbie,

    You may want to consider the following,

    1. For a straight flow pond, air diffuser along the wall at the water return end would be ideal.

    2. For aeration, degassing and cooling of the pond water temperature.Consider having a Bakki Shower in place of the waterfall. Find ways to hide the Bakki Shower behind a decorative wall.

    3. Consider having all your water return via Bakki/waterfall. Current generated by the air diffuser should be enough to push the surface debris to the skimmers.

    4. Consider a surface overflow in your main pond. Protein layer on the surface can be skimmed away to the drain directly when you are doing 24hrs dripping.

    5. Most effective place for a oyster or coral chip buffers is at the Bakki Shower tray.

    6. You pond + filter is about 27ton. You may need 3-4 unit of 15ton pump to drive 2 times turnover rate. Check with Bro Kelvin(Kchong) for the Hailea or Jeabo pumps, cheap and good.

    7. Japanese Mat is a good filter media

    8. At 40-45ton/hrs turnover rate, 3 100mm BD is OK, 4 would be better if you decided for higher turnover rate. It reduces the water level difference between your filter chambers and the main pond.

    Wei Yin

  • taipingnewbietaipingnewbie September 2013
    Posts: 9
    Hi Wei Yin,

    Thank you very much for your input.

    1. A Bakki Shower would be an ideal alternative but concerned about its aesthetic look.

    2. With regards to the air diffuser, do you place it above or below the pond returns ?

  • taipingnewbietaipingnewbie September 2013
    Posts: 9
    Hi Sifus,

    I would appreciate your comments on improvement.

    Post edited by taipingnewbie at 2013-09-24 06:20:08 pm
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar September 2013
    Posts: 1,763
    Hi bro
    Looks gud. As bro Weihan says, air difuser at below PR. 2 x 1 meter diffuser would b ideal. Each diffuser connects to air pump of 120L model would hv a strong effect. Cheers
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar September 2013
    Posts: 1,763
    And another 80L model connects to 8-10 air stone for filter chamber 2&3.
  • taipingnewbietaipingnewbie September 2013
    Posts: 9
    Hi Bro,

    Thank you very much Bro TK and Wei Yin.
    1. Just wondering with the air diffusers below the PRs, won't it disturb the intensity of the water return ?

    2. Bro Wei Yin mentioned about having a surface overflow in the main pond. Where would be the ideal location to place it ?

    3. What are your thoughts on the 'mid pond water intake' ?

  • boykoiboykoi September 2013
    Posts: 186
    1. i have this set up on my bakki water returns.the air duffusers muffs out waves coming frommy bakki thus i can have a calmer pond surface on the other end to view the kois
    2. I have 3 overflows,1 going directly out of pond wall,1 going to discharge chamber,1 going to 1st stage filter.
    3. mid pond water intake wont be necessary on a 20 ton pond which i also have.skimmer and BD's are more than enough
  • wyinwyin September 2013
    Posts: 78
    You may position the surface overflow at the SS side of the pond.
  • ghyeapghyeap September 2013
    Posts: 8
    Hi Taipingnewbie,

    With 30% filter chamber size and overall depth from 4 to 5 ft, it is not necessary to use UV since you intend to use biological filtration. UV light eliminate algae but also kill good and bad bacteria. Good probiotic or enzyme will eliminate bad bacteria and algae too.

    For strongest probiotic available in the market, please refer to Atari or Yamakoshi Mura.
  • taipingnewbietaipingnewbie October 2013
    Posts: 9
    Hi All,

    With regards to the surface overflow, I am having one along the wall where the surface skimmers are. There are suggestions to have one more at the settlement chamber. Is this additional one necessary ? Am I right to drain the surface overflow straight into the main drain ?


  • idrisidris October 2013
    Posts: 1,182
    Can also..if before I would do as u said but mine is at the main pond and straight to the drain...

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Sign In Apply for Membership