• MikeMike October 2012
    Posts: 346
    Hi Guys,

    I have increase my feed from 60g per feed to 90g per feed, 3 to 4 times a day for the past 2 week. The water parameter is all normal with a flux of nitrate of 20 to 80 depends on my daily 5 -10% water change (skipping it a day or two at times).

    Things that puzzle me is that my PH reading is at 6.0 to 6.3 compare with 7.0 to 7.4 before the increase of koi pallet.
    I have been adding 30g of sodium bicarbonate to maintain the PH. Could the increase of feeding volume increase the PH.

    *** Edit ***
    I have been feeding my koi 2 oranges every alternate day. I feed them at night time before my bed time and pick the peel the next afternoon. Could this be the reason of the PH drop.
    Post edited by Mike at 2012-10-21 12:50:22 am
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar October 2012
    Posts: 1,763
    Bro, it's the increase in feeding rate.

    More feeding = more bacteria activity = lower pH

    Try to add in more oyster shell
  • ShukriShukri October 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro Mike,
    What TK said is correct.......more waste mean more bacteria activity, and lowering of the pH as a result. I face this problem especially feeding with a Kg a day....
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • ShukriShukri October 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro kwickcut,
    Sure we can............but the baking soda buffering is not for long........
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • boykoiboykoi October 2012
    Posts: 186
    i have the opposite problem.my 1 year old pond persistently has an 8.2 PH reading. My source water is 8.4, but i was expecting my PH to fall once my pond water matures, but to know avail.it goes down to 8.0 on heavy rains, but never had i have a reading on the 7 level which is frustrating. I only have K1 as bio and a bakki filter with Bioballs aside from a vortex and 2 filter screens as mechanical filter. some say its because K1 matures more slowly than traditional matts. Any sifus can figure out what to do on this?
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar October 2012
    Posts: 1,763
    This is similar to my case. When I stop feeding, pH shoots to 8.6. When I resume my heavy feeding, it goes down to 7.8. :-D

    Bro Boykoi, do you have oyster shell or coral in ur pond? This also can increase pH
    How old is ur K1? If its still new, you can add nitrifying bacteria to make the K1 mature fast.
  • boykoiboykoi October 2012
    Posts: 186
    Hlo bro bthineshkumar,

    No i currently dont have, thoug i have a chamber for it. i dont seem to need oysters as my problem is my high PH, oysters help stabilise on the lower PH.My K1 is a year old, i already did add bacteria when it was new. I have 2 empty matt chambers yet to be filled but i havent done so as my rate feed of 500 grams the current filter medias can still take the load.i am really puzzled as to why PH doesnt lower down. One fault i could think of is i havent brushed my pond walls with muriatic acid thus maybe pond cement is still leaching making water alkali. It is really frustrating to have a higher PH, i must have the minimum ammonia reading for pond water always as it is lethal on higher PH and water temperature
  • e4gler4ye4gler4y October 2012
    Posts: 51
    Hi Boykoi,
    Try to check you gH (General Hardness). From what I heard, water with high gH value if added oxygen into the system will drive up pH. Same situation with my pond. My water source ph is only 7.2-7.5 but my pond is 8.2-8.4. So I can't afford to fast my fishes since fasting means no bio load that drive down ph.
  • niveknivek October 2012
    Posts: 1,251
    A bit of a chicken and egg thing here. At higher pH, if you feed more and ammonia builds up quicker than pH lowering, you end up poisoning the kois :(
  • vic_slash20vic_slash20 October 2012
    Posts: 118
    <blockquote rel="Bthineshkumar"> Bro, it's the increase in feeding rate.

    More feeding = more bacteria activity = lower pH

    Try to add in more oyster shell</blockquote>

    Same goes with mine, but I guess the still having a concrete koi pond greatly differ in a mud pond as to controlling the pH, seems like at 7.0 always I observed with my concrete pond using a pH test kit..

  • boykoiboykoi October 2012
    Posts: 186
    Bro,

    i dong have a GH or even KH test kit,maybe ill try to study this things first as they are new to me vs PH. If my pond wouldve been smaller, i couldve used vinegar like when i still had my FG tank. But now,id need gallons to maintain weekly as i do waterchanges. Ive read about muriatic acid to lower PH, but im afraid to use it as it is even poisonous to humans. I wouldve wanted a mature system thereby PH wouldve lowered naturaly, as kois become stressed when you alter source PH too much. It isnt wise on the long run.

    The only thing i can alter is water temperature lowered through my bakki, and frequent backflush of filters to keep ammonia minimal. I think ill just have to wait few more months and see if PH does go down as my pond is still 10 months old
  • HDCuHDCu October 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro boykoi,

    The only way you will solve your high Ph is to solve your source water. Install a water softener for your source water and your problem is no more.

    Muriatic acid is not poisonous in small amount but I doubt it will solved your problem as your source water PH is high.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-10-22 10:36:39 am
  • lautslauts October 2012
    Posts: 1,248
    Hi Mike,

    Good that you are using S.Bicarb to push up pH from 6 to at at least 7. I guess you need to add in more crush corals/ oysters to buffer, if your pH yo-yo even on feeding. Bacteria activity to convert ammonia waste uses carbonates . Any pond esp where source water has low alkalinity would need to top up with buffers like oysters/ corals. Low pH like what you have make ammo conversion to nitrate inefficient , hence some ammonia would be present in water , as ammonia is more/ very poisonous on high pH , do increase pH slowly. Keep monitoring the kois reaction.

    Read up on carbonate cycle here http://www.makc.com/runemt.pdf

    Good luck Mike.
  • MikeMike October 2012
    Posts: 346
    Thanks for the input guys.

    I will get some oyster shell to stabilize the PH. As I remember, 5kg of oyster shell per tonne. Question is, my pond is fully indoor so does the same ratio still apply or I can reduce the amount of oyster shell needed just to stabilize the PH due to feeding. Reason for the question is I am running out of space in my filter chamber.

    Cheers guys.

    ***Edited***
    I am maintaining my pond PH at 7.0 to 7.4 with sodium bicarbonate for the time being.

    Post edited by Mike at 2012-10-22 11:13:52 pm
  • boykoiboykoi October 2012
    Posts: 186
    Bro Mike,

    Sorry for hostaging ur thread, ive shared my high PH problem when the thread reads Low PH, hahaha. Well i guess the sifus did answer everything yo need.

    Just bring up PH with s.bicarb, then when you reach around the early 7 PH level,then place your corrals/oysters to buffer PH going lower.

    Thanks HDCU,ive been mulling to buy one here at ace hardware,but the salesman told me it doesnt do anything for PH and doesnt know what TDS means. have you have a unit on your pond?does it really help lower PH and TDS?Im talking about the 3 stage water softener selling at ace hardware SM.

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