Introducing a newbie Ssmann and his pond
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Dear hobbyist, I thought it shall be only right to introduce myself, pond and koi before I start asking questions, browsing and becoming part of this community.

    I have a new pond which is about 3 months old. 2.5 tonne pond with waterfall (8ft X 5ft X 2ft) with 2 tonne filter (7ft X 2ft X 4.5ft). Some pics attached. I also have a pump for aeration with 2 hoses and airstone going into the pond, fish seem OK with the waterfall and aeration thus far. Dont really know how much is enough for a pond of my size though, my pump is a Resun LP-40 which is 50L/min. Is this enough??

    I have some problems now eg gills protruding, redness, parking, itching/rubbing on sidewall, gasping etc. I have posted in the kenkona thread, so much useful info here. I wished I read all these prior......

    Current water set up as follows; 1st fill was completely backwashed (no fish in yet). 2nd fill was treated with Tension Gon and Totto Aqua Clear. 3 days on, 1st 3 koi added in. All happy and fine. Then foam started forming, but went off after a week. Now every 2nd day about 15% water change, add tension gon, aqua clear and microbe lift, prior to adding tap water. Is this correct?

    Next is to purchase a QT, so as i can deal with problems early and effectively.

    Thanks for all the useful posts and education for a novice like me....

    Rgds - ssmann

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7638/koi pond.JPG
    Post edited by Ssmann at 2012-07-01 12:55:35 pm
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Ssmann,

    Welcome to koianswers. Hopefully you can get all the answers you are looking here.

    Since your pond is new, can you elaborate further the ff:
    1. Was there a new fish introduced to the pond prior to the development of problems you mentioned?
    2. Was was the water parameter prior to the problems: PH, temp, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.
    3. What is your filter cleaning routine? How is your filter setup and filter medium used?
    4. I see a lot of foaming in the pictures, is the picture taken when you put some medication?
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-07-01 12:42:16 pm
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Hello Bro HDCu,

    Thanks for your prompt response. My responses;

    1. Pond was 1st set up about 2 months ago, and 3 koi were entered. From day 1, there were signs of rubbin, etc. When i added the ochiba last week, the problems worsened
    2. I bought PH, ammonia and nitrate test kits. They were all within acceptable range, ie PH was about 8, ammonia and nitrate in the low category. at one change, it went a little high, so did an immediate 50% water change, and things became better. It has never been in the danger zone yet, when tested once a week
    3. I drain 10% every 2 days, clean filter once a week, but now reduced to 2 weeks once. I was told i need to let the bacteria grow and mature. 4 chambers in filter, 1st is empty (but will get brushes in soon), 2nd has filter mat and 2 bags of coral, same with 3rd and the 4th chamber has the UV light and pump
    Post edited by Ssmann at 2012-07-01 12:58:13 pm
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro SSman,

    There is a possibility the following had happened:
    1. The pond had not yet been properly cured yet prior to the introduction of the new fish. From an environment that they might be used for example at PH of 7 to 7.3 when introduced to a sudden PH of 8 or probably higher causes them to have PH shock.
    2. I am not sure what you meant by ammonia and nitrite is low? For a properly designed new pond with adequate filter, the ammonia SHOULD bump up first with nitrite and nitrate at zero. During at that time, it is important to salt the pond at 0.3. Light feeding and small water change for a week while monitoring ammonia levels. Ammonia should then drop to ZERO while nitrite will continue to spike even at very dangerous levels. If you have both small ammonia and nitrite readings at the same time then you were not able to break the New pond syndrome. After two to four weeks of light feeding, nitrite levels will drop to ZERO as well while Nitrate will go up. During that critical time, turn off UV light until such time water becomes green. Kindly confirm if you experienced above.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro HDCu,

    Thanks man for prompt responses!

    Makes sense on point 1, but i understand the best way to stabilise PH is for the fish to self adjust. Using treatments makes it worst due to drastic shifts. is this correct?

    on point 2, you are spot on. I have experienced spikes, but never to dangerous levels on the chart. I have also not been feeding too heavy, just 2 handfuls about 3 times a day. Water has never turned green, it is clear, but algae growth is abundant, green in colour and a mat formed below and around pond and 1st chamber of filter. The current green and foam is due to the S1 and salt. UV is now turned off as well

    The more i read this forum and others, i suspect that i suffer from new owner excitement syndrome. Wanna see clear water and koi swim happy, but forget that it is certainly not the best for koi.

    What do i do the rectify this in my current situation, with the S1 and salt in the water. I want to do things right this time around.....

    Thanks a million mate! I owe you a drink once this is sorted...
    Post edited by Ssmann at 2012-07-01 01:10:11 pm
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Ssman,

    Normally, kois can only tolerate a PH shift of 0.3, other than than it become stressful to them. Assuming, you got your kois from a pond that has 7.0 Ph and suddenly dumped them in a pond or 8 ph, that is like a PH shift of 100 perecent already. Also at 8 or above PH, even a small ammonia reading is much more harmful to the koi as compared to same reading at 7 ph.

    Personally what I would do is check the PH of the where the kois lived before and then adjust the new pond PH environment to as close as that Ph before introducing the kois to their new environment. At least this way, they have some time to adjust if for example the PH slowly creeps up again.

    Right now, check your ammonia and nitrite level and stop all feeding. Both ammonia and nitrite should read ZERO first so that we can eliminate the NPS.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Thanks bro, feeding has stopped yesterday once the S1 was introduced. Another 4 days to go under full quanrantine.....

    Then, the question is what next after Wed?? Water change? How much, any other precaution? Need to get the salt out too then, causing too much foam....

    I was speaking to my wife and son this am over breakfast, and mentioned that maintining a koi pond is even more difficult than our 4 year old son!!! hahahahahaha
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Lets wait after another four days to observe if problem have lapsed but it expect that it could take until 2 weeks if problem is worst.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Tq sir, it helps to be reassured that the problem is solveable....once again, thanks
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro Ssmann,
    Bro HDcu has guided and given you a lot of pointers there. Question, what is the pH of the water source? And for me pH 8 is high, eventhough to others they say that this range is OK. At this range, ammonia is very toxic to the kois. Since your pond is relatively new, I suspect that the pond walls are not thoroughly cured. Toxic stuff still leached into the pond. If your source water is......lets say pH 7.4, then the question.....what is making the pH to go to pH8? This needs to be address quickly.
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
    Post edited by Shukri at 2012-07-01 04:53:20 pm
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar July 2012
    Posts: 1,763
    Bro Ssmann,
    Looks like both of us started this hobby at the same time.
    My pond already stabilized although the filter is only 20%, thanks to this forum and help from all the sifu's. Your filter is 45%, it should do wonders. Just follow sifu's advice.
    I was just like you, dump all the chemical available. It's a newbie syndrome I guess. Hehehe

    Let your filter mature first. Get nitrifying bacteria from Yamakoshi tropicana and add only after your pond treatment. It would help the bacteria column to mature fast. Just my 1 cent.

    Anyway welcome to Koianswer

    Thanks and Regards
    Tk
    Post edited by Bthineshkumar at 2012-07-01 07:54:05 pm
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro Shukri, thanks for post. When I tested the PH of my water source on Thurs, it was very close to the PH in the pond. I have a test kit, that indicates by colour, so it is not entirely accurate as well, cause i have to make an assessment of the colour in the various shades of green, but it surely is not above 8, as then the colour needs to turn Indigo.....
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro Tk, thanks for the welcome. Indeed newbie syndrome, too exicted too soon to see koi swimmin in crystal clear water...hahaha. Anyway, good lesson learnt.

    Yes, i will pay Yamakoshi a visit this Wed. I currently use Microbe lift, trust that is a nitrifying bacteria?

    Tq bro!
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro, you will just have to go through the phase........all of us was once there. A pH 8 for a tap water supply is rather high in Alkaline but not unusual.......Why don't you get another tester just to be sure........
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    I will bro Shukri, this Wed....will go get a proper tester...then the process starts..tq sir!
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Ssmann,

    Personally I would not recommend for a new starting pond to use Microbe lift as this usually prolong the the growth of nitrosomas and nitrobacter, two of the necessary bacteria to breakdown ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. The regular microbe lift meanwhile increase the removal of organic waste by breaking it down by the use of microbes that are safe to the koi. However, these microbes compete against nitrosomas and nitrobacter. What you want to do is to build up nitrosomas and nitrobacter colonies in the pond and filter medium as fast but also as safe as possible for the kois. After ammonia and nitrite has been reduced to zero the microbe lift will then help "mature" the pond by converting nitrates to nitrogen gas through anoxic filtration thereby solving your green water issues. Please note that anoxic filtration works best with a steady supply of carbonate alkalinity or else it might result in a PH crash with all your bacteria colonies dying off.

    Correction: it seems after checking microbe lift they have come out with TWO kinds of microbelift.
    the Nite-Out II which contains nitrobacter and nitrosomas bacteria and the PL which controls organic waste. So be advise accordingly.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-07-02 10:30:24 am
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro HDCu,

    Thanks for the post on Microbe Lift and also the subsequent research on the product. Now the million dollar question, after Wed when i rid my pond and filter of S1, what should I do? Do i refill with water, add TensionGon, bring salt to 0.5% and let the pond mature and allow NPS to take its course, with regular water changes? This seems to be the advise I am getting....

    Tq
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Is the conditon of fish improving lately? What is the ammonia and nitrite reading now? It is imperative that you give high oxygenation, zero ammonia and nitrite levels to allow the koi to recover from any injuries or stress they received. If the kois has not yet recover I would prolong the treatment a little longer.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-07-02 11:46:10 am
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro HDCu, this morning before I left for work, the 2 most effected koi looked happier, they were swimming with the rest. The rest are all active and fine. I will keep the S1 in till Wed. When I go home this evening, will do the tests to check on ammonia and nitrite levels. I have the waterfall running and a Resun 50L/min pump being supplied to 2 airstones. How do I know if this is enuff oxygen for a pond of my size?

    Tq bro
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Since your pond is small and you already have a waterfall running then there is no more need for additional air pump. Please be guided that with smaller volume of pond water, the danger of overstocking, ammonia and nitrite spike and PH crash is magnified as in your case. You need to keep your smaller volume of water at better quality always to remove stressors by frequent water change( at least a minimum of ten percent a day based on your stocking rate employing constant water drip), faster filter to pond turnover( at least 2x per hour), and heavy oxygenation( to compensate for the lack of exercise of the koi in a smaller body of water).
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Dear hobbyist,

    I have perused through the threads in this sub-forum and find lotsa useful info. Some of the schematic drawings are a little too technical for me, so I need some clarification here. I do apologise if this is covered elsewhere, but i do assure you I have spent the past week reading almost ALL the threads in this sub-forum and still dont have the right answer to my queries.

    1. My pond is about 2.5 tonne and the filter is 2 tonne. I do not have have an overflow system in the pond, as this was omitted during construction. I have an overflow in the filter 1st chamber, this is how it was designed. I knew very little about ponds and construction, i know a little more now. Question, how do i workaround the fact that I have no overflow in the main pond? Any suggestions?

    2. I have 2 bottom drains from the pond, into the filter and the filter also has bottom drains. The filter has 5 chambers with up down system as follows;

    a. Chamber 1 - water from pond enters this chamber, I have no brushes here now, but will retrofit brushes in
    b. Chamber 2 - water flows from chamber 1 into chamber 2, from the top. Here I have 2 mats and 2 bags of coral, which sit about 6 inches from the bottom, where there is an empty space for water to flow through into half of chamber 3
    c. Chamber 3 - empty, to accept water from chamber 2
    d. Chamber 4 - same as chamber 2, ie 2 mats and 2 bags of coral which sits about 6 inches from the bottom
    e. Chamber 5 - water flows from under chamber 4 into 5, where the pump and UV filter are housed

    Question - is this an adequate set up?
    Question - what is the best filter media to use for good bacteria growth and ease of maintenance and in which chambers should it sit
    Question - I hear that coral is not good for koi. If i replace it, what is it best replaced with?
    Question - should I have further filteration media where the pump and UV light is?
    Question - should there be aeration in the filter? If so, could I connect another tube to my current blower and add it with an airstone into the filter. If so, which chamber?

    Many thanks all! I really appreciate any advice on this.

    Tq - Ssmann
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Friends,

    this is the problem my koi is suffering at the gill...what is it? 1st pic shows the red gill, on close inspection it looks like a wound and thus the gill is protruding. Look at 2nd pic, this is the left gill, no problem. The problem is only on the right gill. Also body is red in some spots....will soaking in S1 resolve this?

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7671/koi infected.JPG
    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7672/koi infected 2.JPG
    Post edited by Ssmann at 2012-07-02 02:09:31 pm
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro HDCu, thanks!

    Sorry to have to ask more questions, I am learning alot as I progress through this journey and you are immensely helping me. Thanks!

    1. Water changes, will occur 10% a day. I dont have a tap fit in yet for drip, will be done next week when my contractor is available. This will go straight into the filter. Question is with drip feed, do i need to apply anti chlorine, and if so, how to monitor as the drip is all day....

    2. How to measure filter to pond turnover. I read on the net, but it seems to technical to comprehend. Any simple way to measure this?

    3. Heavy oxygenation, what does this mean? I assume you refer to the air pump. Any other way to oxygenation?

    Thanks bro!
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    I would do away with corals as these are difficult to clean and may breed bad bacteria.

    For the first chamber I would place several packed brushes there to filter waste. As much as possible I would clean this area in two to three days by stopping the pump for a few minutes, raising and shaking the brushes and draining the dirty water before placing back the brushes. This should only take you at most ten minutes.
    For the second, third and fourth chamber it should be packed with japanese matt arranged in a honeycomb setup, It should be heavily aerated with several airstone placed at the bottom of the japanese matt. In your case I would get a china made LP100 to aerate the filter medium or a taiwan made 60 lpm airpump would do equally good but at a lesser energy cost. For the last chamber, you can just put a small bag of oyster shell or a small block of plaster of paris to act as PH buffer( personally i dont think this is necessary anymore in your case as your waterfall already has limestone blocks that acts as a natural PH buffer) and house the UV there with another or ceramic or plastic cover shielding the pump from being deteriorated by the UV ray.

    For maintenance flush second to fourth chamber at least once a month or less depending on your feeding regimen and if you feel that the water quality seem to be deteriorating. As you flush your brush chamber, expect your water level to go down, employ a constant trickle(pereferable passing to container first with lots of activated carbon) of new water. As soon as your water level goes up to the maximum that the water is being release to the overpipe in the first chamber, then it would be a sign for you to flush and clean again the brush chamber.

    You did not mention what is the rated capacity of your water transfer pump as well. You should know the pond turnover whether it is adequate enough or not.
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro SSman,


    Your shiros gill has been damaged by ammonia and nitrite spike due to improper new pond cycle. in humans its like only one lung may be functionng one hundred percent while the other one is functioning at maybe around 30 percent. It will take some time for this to heal but that particular gill may have unfortunately been damaged beyond repair that it might not close permanently anymore. The red spots is what we call veining and is a clear sign of stress.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-07-02 02:29:36 pm
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    To determine your pond turnover rate is simple.

    Rated capacity - head loss = actual flow rate

    actual flow rate/ pond volume = pond turnover.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro HDCu,

    Thanks a million! You're like a walking talking koi n pond dictionary. I'm very grateful for your time and effort to educate me. Tq.

    Noted all comments on filtration. I am glad that I can do almost 80 percent of what u have suggested, rest is limited due to system design, eg specific chamber back flushing. When I retrofit a pipe in, will ensure there is space for it to trickle through activated carbon, I presume to help stabilize the water.

    On my Shiros gill, yes, I hope he recovers. Now to stabilize nps. Normally how long will this take? And does this also mean that the stress is bcos of water quality that the s1 treatment was not needed? I hope no harm caused. Will remove on wednesday.

    I'll look at the pump rate n revert on turnover.

    Just got home to see all my kois coming up to surface and waiting for me. Usually the hide when I come, they must be so hungry, cause they r like waiting patiently for me to feed.....kesian la

    In conclusion, what are the steps I should take for water quality after Wednesday once I flush s1 out?

    To bro!
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Just got back, some update pics

    1. Some of the other koi have also developed redness, spotting

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7711/koi school.JPG

    2. This is my white koi (i forget the Jap name for her). She has lost lots of weight, she is now long and thin, but see, she has a big head still. She is about 55cm....why is this happening and how do i get her back in shape?

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7712/thin koi.JPG

    3. And here she is just now parking and having a fins clamped, is this a bad sign?

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7716/clamped fin.JPG
    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7713/clapme fin 2.JPG

    Sad la to see this, but I guess i need to learn the hard way as a novice on how to ensure water quality before introducing koi....also the amount of foam developing is also ridiculous, tells tales about the water....
    Post edited by Ssmann at 2012-07-02 06:53:22 pm
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro Ssmann, the one mentioned, is it a local koi?
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro shukri, it is a jap koi, well at least that's what the dealer told me. My son liked it, and I got the Ochiba which I always wanted.....
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro Ssmann,
    Appreciate if you can update the Avatar........
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Done bro Shukri
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    OK thanks bro Ssmann........
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Brudders,

    Today, after 4 days on S1, I flushed out filter and gave it a thorough clean. An almost 50% water change over a 6 hour period, very slowly to not stress the fish more. Filter mats were changed to Matala (as seen in picture) and added Crystal Bio (40 litres in 3 nets) and Ceramic Ring Glass type 25kg in 5 nets. From the pictures, you can see that the crystal bio does not sink, it floats. Is this normal? Will the filteration be good? There is a space between the Ceramic Ring that sinks to the bottom and crystal bio, is this ok?

    Water is still greenish as if suffering from a mild algae bloom, must be due to the S1 and UV off for 4 days. Will this ever go away? If so, how long and what is the secret to getting clear water again?

    The koi's seem happier now, some slight flashing and parking...but way better. Thanks everyone for all their help and the extremely nice gentlemen who has been on the phone helping me out, salute brader!

    Some pics

    Crystal bio floating, is this normal? Have also added a airstone here for aeration and built up of good bacteria. Below the crystal bio is ceramic ring

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7893/crystal bio floating.jpg

    Packed up chamber 2 with Matala mat and my old mats which I thoroughly cleaned

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7894/packed up with matala mat.jpg

    Filter chambers cleaned

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7895/filter chamber 1 n 2 cleaned.jpg
    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7896/filter chamber 3 4 5 cleaned.jpg

    Out goes old filter media

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7897/out goes old filter media.jpg

    Finally, water back in pond but still greenish...what in the world do I do?

    www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/7898/still greeinish water.jpg
  • idrisidris July 2012
    Posts: 1,182
    Bro..where are u located? Pm me ur phone number...
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Done boss..check PM
  • jamiltjamilt July 2012
    Posts: 287
    bro HDCu, how do I calculate head loss.
    Post edited by jamilt at 2012-07-03 10:48:37 pm
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Jamilt,

    You can look at The specification of your water pump if there is any. Normally, a water pumps output is reduced if there are restrictions like how high the water is pump, how deep is the return pipe, the pipe used, etc. some pumps normally loose 20 percent of its rated capacity just to push water up by 1.2 meters.
  • BthineshkumarBthineshkumar July 2012
    Posts: 1,763
    Bro,
    Put 10 kg(in 2 packs) of oyster shell on top of the crystal bio to make it sink.
    As you had cleaned the entire filter chamber and added new mat, need to add nitryfying bacteria to speed up the bact build up (need to start all over again).
    I think the mat should be arranged in honeycomb method(not sure this method is helpfull). I think sifu's can help further on that.
  • jamiltjamilt July 2012
    Posts: 287
    Thanks bro HDCu.
    Post edited by jamilt at 2012-07-04 06:23:46 am
  • idrisidris July 2012
    Posts: 1,182
    Bro ssmann..don't worry with ur greenish water..it can be solve with uv light...right now your mission is to reduce ammonia and No2.. As you told me ur salt level already at 0.2% so please increase to 0.5%.., but gradually...stop feeding..koi won't die although 2 weeks without food...dont add any medicine even kenkona..because your problem now is water quality....you can put bacteria enhancer such as biozyme to build up your bacteria count...once the ammonia and NO2 is zero, then you can feed gradually...safe PH level is 6.5 to 8.5 but it is best you can maintain less than 8.. My PH maintain at 7-7.2.... For your pond you need only 10 kg of oyster shell and that is sufficient...your pond is not covered plus it is only 4.5 ton...small pond easily have a risk to fluctuate water parameter such as PH...make sure when you add tap water you put also anti chlorine...chlorine is more danger than NO2 because if high level it can instantly kill your fish...anything just call, SMS or PM me bro...If you need me to comedown to your place please do...I am jobless now so have time to wonder around even to klang...hehehe...
    Post edited by idris at 2012-07-04 11:07:54 am
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Bro Idris, thanks a million for your call and help. You have followed through and aided me through a stressful time. I am very grateful, god bless u always. I salute you! Also a special thanks to bro M zain who has been so helpful and aided me thru, salut bro!

    I am glad to report that as off 5.15pm today, kois are all active again, swimming n cheerful! Water parameters have improved so much, almost all readings @ 0, except for nitrate. Ph is 7ish. Salt is @ 0.2. Water is less green, a moment ago I on the uv n started a 10 percent water change.

    Bro, u r welcome to come to klg anytime, I treat u to good food and drinks! Tq again

    To all others who have helped me here eg bro hdcu, tk, ikk and all the rest, tq so much! Now I hope I know how to manage koi crisis for the future!!!!

    Rgds - ssmann
    Post edited by Ssmann at 2012-07-04 05:36:38 pm
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Dear bros, just a small update. Crisis over, all kois r happy and water parameters in good order. It's been almost 3 weeks now and I plan to clean filter properly. Question is, do I wash the jap mats as well or just drain the water from filter? I read somewhere that washing the mats will destroy bacteria build up and this is not good. 3 weeks of solid koi poo is stressful on my filter, mats look real dirty...but water is still clear and in good shape. Your expert advise pls. Tq as always!




  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Go ahead and thoroughly wash your J Mat and filter chambers. Change and add water. Check the essentials parameters. Then it is your call whether you want to add salt or not to the water......
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
    Post edited by Shukri at 2012-07-22 11:37:29 pm
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Tq sir for prompt response! Next weekend project....thorough clean!! Then it's shopping for 2 new babies ; )
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Do not forget to quarantine the 2 Tosais.........
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Sure bro, tq
  • dennis68dennis68 July 2012
    Posts: 69
    Bro can use alge killer
  • SsmannSsmann July 2012
    Posts: 164
    Thanks bro dennis68. But I dont have a green water problem, although i have a full algae carpet on walls and bottom....which looks kinda nice and natural, but does give the water a darker look....its real nice at nite though when the spotlights are on....

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Sign In Apply for Membership