When to put fish in new pond
  • david3333david3333 February 2012
    Posts: 28
    Hi, I am new to this forum. I've just completed my fish pond. How do I know when it is time
    to put in my fish?

    Thank You.
  • ChengAunChengAun February 2012
    Posts: 925
    Check ph, ammonia, nitrate , nitrite. The salt the pond. Wait for a week or two. Then add fish. Care to show your pond layout?
    Be updated in the world of koi. Jangankan seperti "Koi di bawah bottom drain"
  • david3333david3333 February 2012
    Posts: 28
    ChengAun,
    Thanks for your quick respond. I have attached my pond, please feel free to comment. Any advise will be grateful. The size 78x52x36(depth) inches. The filter measures 12x20 inches and partially eats into the pond. Can you state in details about checking ph, amonia, etc. How to to this? is there a tool/meter? How to salt the pond? I am totally new to breeding koi.
  • ashfaqashfaq February 2012
    Posts: 799
    Thanks,
    Ashfaq from India-Chennai
  • SRathaSRatha February 2012
    Posts: 189
    Hi David,
    From the picture, it seems you have not coated the pond, and it is bare cement/concrete from the picture. My advice would be to fill it up with water, and let all the toxic/poison from construction of the pond clear out to run in the pond. You may want to clean up using a brush or anything to rid of the excess cement. I would run it in for a week, if not longer (this is a good time to add in all your new filter medias or anything you plan on putting in your filter to run it in). Empty the pond and fill it up with water again. Most importantly add beneficial bacteria, dose it a good amount. If you are still unsure, I would put in tester fish to make sure it can survive for 2-3 days.

    For startup, you may go find aquarium salt to add into you pond (make sure it is not iodized salt as this is basically poison for fish), add increments of salt until it reaches .3% in the space of 3-5 days. Never throw salt into the pond directly, make sure to mix it with a bucket of water and allow it to dissolve completely before adding the mixture into your filter, if you use bay filters, put it into the first one.
    You buy salt measures from most koi shops.
  • david3333david3333 February 2012
    Posts: 28
    Ashfaq,
    Thanks your your tips, they sure help me understand better. I did not water-proof my pond, my contractor says it is not necessary. The walls and bottom are already with 5 inches concrete and plastered with cement. How do I determine the tonnage(amount of water) in my pond? You mention .3%, so I need to know amount of water my tank can hold. My pond is 78x52x36(depth) inches. The filter measures 12x20 inches and partially eats into the pond.

    Thanks again.
  • david3333david3333 February 2012
    Posts: 28
    SRatha,
    what filter materials should pun in the 4-chambers filter system?
  • david3333david3333 February 2012
    Posts: 28
    SRatha,
    Thanks your your tips, they sure help me understand better. I did not water-proof my pond, my contractor says it is not necessary. The walls and bottom are already with 5 inches concrete and plastered with cement. How do I determine the tonnage(amount of water) in my pond? You mention .3%, so I need to know amount of water my tank can hold. My pond is 78x52x36(depth) inches. The filter measures 12x20 inches and partially eats into the pond.

    Thanks again.
  • wongyengwongyeng February 2012
    Posts: 238
    I would cycle this pond for 2-3 wks before doing anything. Also put in some small fish and see how the fare. When I started my pond, after cycling for 1 wk and throwing in some small fish, all of them kaput. I cycled the pond for another wk and threw in another batch of small fish which survived happily and procreated, indicating all clear to load up.
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    Wongyeng,
    Many thanks. But first , Ineed to know how to calculate the amount of water my pond can hold. Then only I can put in the necessary salts. Can you tell me how to calculate. BTW, the salt is the type that is sold at sudnry shop(coarse type)?
  • KaajKaaj March 2012
    Posts: 376
    Hello David,
    Here is the calculation :
    6.5ft x 4.33ft x 3ft = 84.44 cubic feet / 35.315 = 2.39 cubic metres. (1cbm=1ton)
    6.5ft x 1ft x 1.67ft x ft = 0.30 CBM.
    Total Tonnage = 2.69
    You will require less than 9 Kgs of salt for your pond to achieve salinity of 0.3%.

    I would suggest raring goldfish, as koi require more space for growth!
  • ChengAunChengAun March 2012
    Posts: 925
    Uncle Kaaj,
    HAH! There goes me with my 3 ton pond :p
    Be updated in the world of koi. Jangankan seperti "Koi di bawah bottom drain"
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    Kaaj,
    Thanks for the calculation. Anyway, I tested my pond and found it to be leaking water. Overnight, half the water laeked out. I did not water-proof my pond. Now, I need to
    get my contractor to hack off the surface cement plaster and apply with water-proof cement plaster.
  • adleeadlee March 2012
    Posts: 115
    wait... i read the previous post and you said your contractor cement plaster the walls and floor after they do a five inch concreate? and did not mix the waterproof milk@liquid?
  • idrisidris March 2012
    Posts: 1,182
    no..i believe in his previous post his contractor said no need to water proof...
  • adleeadlee March 2012
    Posts: 115
    heeheh... should ask the contractor if he has pond back at home or not :) mr david how bout dont hack-off it completely. just chip it off a bit the replaster with waterproof cement layer?
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    Adlee/Idris,
    you are both right. It seems my contractor forgot to add in the water-proof milk when he plaster the cement. Now it will cost me more to hack-off the layer of cement and replaster with waterproof milk. The water seems to hold at about 1 feet deep. At least the bottom floor is not leaking. I have been refilling with water and I believe the leak is some where between 12" to 16" height.
  • megatronmegatron March 2012
    Posts: 832
    Is there any piping at the 12" to 16" height? Most leaks are from the pipes.
    Don't ask me why!!!
  • MikeMike March 2012
    Posts: 346
    David333, when your contractor is plastering, do request them to round up all the corners to 5" each side, bottom 90 degree corner as well.
  • raymond_ongraymond_ong March 2012
    Posts: 90
    Bro david, ya bro Mike is correct. 90 degree joint where two walls meet or wall & slab meet are always the weakest places and leak the most. If you decided to hack away the plaster surface, suggest to do up the angle filler before apply the water proofing. Hope it helps. With half of pond water gone overnight, think the structure might have some cracks or as other bros suggested leak at the pipes.
    Post edited by raymond_ong at 2012-03-07 12:16:13 am
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    Megatron/Mike/Raymond,
    will attached a photo of my finished pond.
  • jaysonjayson March 2012
    Posts: 106
    bro david, i would suggest u apply fiber glass rather then hack the cement and apply the water-proof. it should be cost you less money and time and work. my 2 cent :-D as i also put fiber glass for my 2 ton pond.
  • megatronmegatron March 2012
    Posts: 832
    Anyone has fiberglass contractor? PM me. TQ
    Don't ask me why!!!
  • jaysonjayson March 2012
    Posts: 106
    bro, i have but in penang. :P
    u want it?
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    Hi Everyone. Just discussed with my contractor. he suggest to apply a layer of water-proofing(without mixing with cement) over the existing walls. what do you guys think? The water-proofing type is AJ WaterProof(aatched). Is this suitable? Attached are also photos of my pond.
  • 4r4sis4r4sis March 2012
    Posts: 66
    bro you might want to consider a jotun penguard paint. i used it before and it cost about rm110.00-rm140.00 per 5 litre. its a epoxy type.
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    4r4sis,
    I check thru the websites, it seems jotun penguard is an epoxy paint that is water-resistant. Can this help yo cure a elaking pond?

    Thanks.
  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    Help!!!
    Can someone suggest a suitabler water-proof sealer? My pond is leaking and contractor sugegsted to use AJ Water-Proof.
  • megatronmegatron March 2012
    Posts: 832
    Bro david3333,

    You may consider Sika 108 which is still more reliable for me so far, mix according to the instruction describe in the manual.
    Don't ask me why!!!
  • HDCuHDCu March 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro David333,

    I would suggest you find the source of the leak in the concrete pond by checking up to what water level it goes down. Once you find where the crack is, re cement that portion before applying any waterproofing. This is the correct long term way to do it. Waterproof epoxy will not stop structural cracks from reemerging and leaking again. . Elastic membrane coatings while more expensive can hold small cracks.

    In my plants cooling tower, the water reservoir even had a one fourth inch asphalt membrane to prevent leak which was guaranteed for 10 years. After 8 years, the reservoir sprung a leak and the waterproof membrane installed had to find the source of the leak, cut out a part of the membrane, recemented the crack and installed a new membrane on the leaking part. Good thing that it was guaranteed. Hehe.

    One of My old ten year old koi pond only leaked once, contractor had to find the leak, chip of the leaked portion and then reapplied waterproof cement and only then waterproof epoxy paint was applied.
    Post edited by HDCu at 2012-03-27 10:50:08 am
  • harryyewharryyew March 2012
    Posts: 396
    Good evening bro David3333

    Have been able to find where the leak is and do you know how to see for tell tales signs where the leak might be?

    I don't think the AJ waterproofing will be able to resolve your problem.

    I noticed you have been mentioning the white liquid thing? What is that? Is it some bonding agent or admixture you are referring to be introduced into the cement sand mortar mix?

    I think your leak is at the filtration chamber....the slab embedded into the brickwall of the pond. The jointing there is most likely the problem area. See your photo 2. You can just check this portion 1st by plugging any opening into it and out of it. Use a hammer and lightly tap around the internal and external surfaces there and see you get a hollow sound or not. Check for fine crack lines at the jointing at the filtration chamber w.r.t wall. Use a magnifying glass if required..... hehehe

    Check your surrounding beside the pond to see where it is much wetter. Narrow it down. Use the process of elimination to narrow down the likely problem area.

    If you are able to find the area, you can hacked it off and apply a non shrinkage cementitious material like Fosroc Renderroc TG with their bonding agent (Nitobond) or any other reputable brand bonding agent.

    Cheers




  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    HDCu/harryyew,
    Thanks for your advise. Please refer to the Photo3, reattached here. When I fill water until the yellow line, it will drop to the red line and stays. When I fill water to the blue line, it will
    drop to the red line. I found 2 holes under the chambers. My contractor is fixing the pond now with SikaGrout. He will also redo the corners. I hope this works.


  • david3333david3333 March 2012
    Posts: 28
    sorry, I am not able to attached the photo.
  • harryyewharryyew March 2012
    Posts: 396
    Bro david3333

    Glad to know that you are progressing. No see reattach photo 3 with colour marking leh.

    Your contractor is using Sika grout by gravity flow to infill the voids? I don't think sika grout can have low slump for vertical plane and to soffit of chamber. Multiple layering may need to be employed.

    Cheers.
  • kevo0okevo0o April 2012
    Posts: 15
    Can somebody please help me. I am from the states and i am remodeling my pond. we want to use waterproof for pond. But can i apply something that is a little toxic? at my place its hard to find a non toxic epoxy paint.
  • david3333david3333 July 2012
    Posts: 28
    Hi everyone,
    I am back after a long hibernation. Finally, my new pond is ready, with the help of many useful tips from all the sifus here. I have attached some photos. Just wish to know
    1. what filter materials should I put in each chamber of the filter system
    2. can I use the filter(red circle in photo2)?

    Thanks.

    http://www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/8122/Pond3.jpg
    http://www.koianswers.com/discussion/download/8121/pond2.jpg
    Post edited by Shukri at 2012-07-17 02:22:15 pm
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Hi Bro David3333,

    welcome back.

    Dont bother putting a household prefilter. It will just clog easily and block your pump flow.

    It seems you need to address some dead spot in your pond.
  • david3333david3333 July 2012
    Posts: 28
    HDCu,
    Thanks for your advise. Anyway, what dead spot are your referring to?
    Also, what type of filer material should I put into each chamber?

  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro David333

    You can put several brushes on chamber A, Japanese Matt on chamber B and C and some crystal bio or ceramic rings plus a few oyster shells on the waterfall chamber. Heavily aerate chamber B,C, and D.

    You will have some dead spot where some koi shit will settle such as the corners, beneath the pump, on the right side pond ledge and at near under the post of the filter chamber.
  • ShukriShukri July 2012
    Posts: 4,881
    Bro HDCu,
    Where are the latest pictures with your pond? Appreciate your updates......

    My apology David, for highjacking your post.
    In Koianswers Forum, no one individual is above the rest. This is the Forum for the Koi Community.
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    Bro Shukri,

    Pond still at 80 percent complete. Contractor could not paint the pond because rain has not stopped for more than two weeks here. Contractor dont want want to risk it. Meanwhile filter chamber, pumps, air lines, led lights, and other electricals should be finished by next week. Ill post it in a new thread soon. Still thinking whether to put in a home theater projector.... hehe.
  • david3333david3333 July 2012
    Posts: 28
    HDCu,
    Sorry for asking these silly questions but I am totally new fish pond.
    1. What is the purpose of these brushes?
    2. Japanese Matt - I think I know this
    3. What is this "Heavily aerate chamber B,C, and D", how do I do this?.
    Currently, I am using pineapple peels to season my new pond. Hope to put some fish to try next week.
    BTW, looking forward to see photos of your new pond.
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    bro David3333

    The brushes were design for koi filter ponds to trap majority of the waste before going to the bio filters. The first chamber should be packed with brushes and these brushes should be cleaned daily or once every two days by sloshing it in the chamber up and down and then draining the dirty water. This should only take you five minutes since your chamber is small.

    The Japanese matt should be placed in a honeycomb configuration with small space in between. Place a one inch plastic dog mat at the bottom and then place around 2 or 3 small airstones. Afterwhich, you put the assembled japanese matt. Once you open the airpump, lots of small bubbles form up. What will happen is that your biofilter Japanese matt will be a breeding ground for good bacteria that will consume the ammonia and nitrites. Once a week, drain the water in the chamber B,C, and D to remove organic matter that will settle at the bottom of the chamber.
  • david3333david3333 July 2012
    Posts: 28
    HDCu,
    I understand you are constructing a new pond and you are painting the pond.
    Can I know which type of paint5 is suitable? I plan to paint my pond too.

    Thanks.
  • HDCuHDCu July 2012
    Posts: 1,117
    bro David3333

    I am using an industrial marine based two component epoxy primer and then a two component black top coat. The epoxy primer should be painted two coats with each coat allowed to dry for one day.
  • david3333david3333 July 2012
    Posts: 28
    HDCu,
    Can you tell me the brand and model and is this available from hardware shop? I plan to paint the bottom blue. I read somewhere, it says is OK to use Nippon epoxy paint.

    How's you new pond coming along? which thread was it?

  • david3333david3333 July 2012
    Posts: 28
    Hi all Sifus,
    I need help, I wish to paint my new pond. Can someone suggest a suitable paint, brand and model?

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