Petfish.net Message Board Archive No. 7 Part 2

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From: Kristen 12/01/99
Subject: Populating my 10 gallon tank and ammonia

Just before Thanksgiving, I set up a 10 gallon tank and added 4 zebra danios on November 21st to start the cycling process. These little guys have been doing great and they eat like pigs! I went away for part of the holiday weekend and they were fine. I tested the water for ammonia both before and after the trip and the levels were perfect believe it or not. I did a small water change last Sunday just to be safe and then tested the water again.
Because my ammonia levels were fine at that point, I decided to add 2 bronze cories to the tank. I though maybe the danios were too small to start the tank cycling correctly. That was 3 days ago and I've been testing the tank each day to make sure there are no ammonia spikes. It's been fine and the fish have all been perfectly active and healthy.
I don't want to jinx myself because I am a beginner, but why haven't I seen any fluctuations in the ammonia levels? I've really tried to go about this in the right way and have read LOTS of info on ammonia problems when setting up a new tank from scratch. Any ideas why I've been so lucky?
And finally, I have room for 3 or 4 more, small fish (1-2 inches) or 2 larger fish (2-3 inches). Does anyone have any suggestions for these last few spots once I'm ready to finish populating the tank?

From: Clint 12/01/99
Subject: Re: Populating my 10 gallon tank and ammonia

Maybe I shouldn't admit this but, I have never tested fresh water tanks for ammonia. I just start with very few fish and add a few along until I get it populated.
Also if your water is on the acidic side of the ph meter you won't get any ammonia, it has to be alkaline. Most aquarium fish like slightly acidic water, so if you really want to mess with the chemistry ( which I don't) the single best thing you could do would be to lower the pH to below 7, say around 6.5 or so.
If the fish are doing fine and you only add a very few at a time you will be all right. Be stingy with the food, do regular partial water changes and don't overstock, easy as 123.
Good Luck,
Clint

From: Diana 12/01/99
Subject: Re: Populating my 10 gallon tank and ammonia

here is a good page for you to look at. Of course I cant tell you how many fish were used to cycle this persons tank. It does not say what the ratio of fish to water were. However if you set it up "just before" thankggiving (a day or a week? how long is just before??) and have few fish and its a planted tank then the plants might be helping you out some.
I myself would have gone fishless cycling but thats My preference.
Watch wait and check... Good luck!
Start-up

From: gotrdon 11/29/99
Subject: home made fish food

I have a large tank with large gold fish 6 in all and all about 7 inches (18 cm ) AS THEY ARE GREAT FOOD CONSUMERS I WANT A RECEIPE FOR HOME MADE FOOD TO SUPPLEMENT SHOP BROUGHT

From: Steve 11/29/99
Subject: Tankmates for Betta

I have a male Betta in a 5 gallon he is all by himself. I was thinking of adding a coolie loach, and maybe a platy OR a pair of dwarf gouramis. Would these guys mix together. Thank You

From: Diana 11/29/99
Subject: Re: Tankmates for Betta

if it were me... which it isnt..
I would get a couple Colie loaches (they are nocternal and enjoy hiding so dont expect the see them much) and 2 Otto cats with the betta. Of course this is providing you have at least one form of plant life in there incase you dont get much algae.
some of the good non plant eating Pointy shelled snales would be good too. jee I forgot their name... HM.
also a good companion (so Ive heard) are those lil ghost shrimp.

From: Clint 11/29/99
Subject: Re: Tankmates for Betta

I think the Collie and the platy (if not a long finned one) will do all right with a Betta. I'm not so sure about the Dwarf Gouramis, they are sort of related and from the same general region, they might not get along, but I'm not sure. A Corydoras catfish would be an excellent addition.
Clint

From: Eddie 11/29/99
Subject: Re: Tankmates for Betta

If you get kuhli loaches, get at least two, three for cories

From: rachelle 11/29/99
Subject: HELP! My betta has ich! (I think)

Hi! I think my betta has ich. I keep him in a 5 gallon tank with a dwarf frog, but I haven't seen any white spots on my froggie (yet). Anyway, my betta's fins have salt-like spots on them. So I decided to get some medication and it's this super ich cure. I was reading the instructions, which were:
1) Take out activated carbon from filter.
2) Empty one capsule per 5 gallons.
3) Wait 48 hours, then empty another capsule per 5 gallons.
4) Wait another 48 hours, then change 25% of the water and replace activated carbon.
That's it! My questions are:
1) Can I assume this is ich and only ich and nothing else? He seems to be healthy other than the white spots. He's swimming fine and he still eats like a pig.
2) Will the frog get ich too?
3) Most importantly, does ich only need 4 days to cure? What if after I put the 2nd capsule in, he still has some white spots on him? Should I put another capsule in again? Or should I follow the instructions? How are they so sure that 2 capsules will do the trick?
PLEASE HELP! I've gotten attached to my little friends and I can't just go buy another betta if this one goes.
Thanks!
Rachelle
P.S. His name is Turk. (Short for 'turquoise', which is the color of his fins. He's really pretty. Anyway, sorry I sound so crazy. I just need help right away.)

From: Clint 11/29/99
Subject: Re: HELP! My betta has ich! (I think)

Yes it does sound exactly like ick. The med will kill all the free "swimming" ick parasites immediately, the ones that are all ready immbedded will continue to live for a few days and fall off and lay eggs. the 4 days treatment is so the med will kill all the eggs too.
Froogy won't get ick, it's a fish thing. Although I'm not sure if the ick medicine is good for frogs. I doubt it will hurt him but if you really want to be sure you could put him in another tank or bowl for the 4 days.
You shouldn't have any problems getting rid of the ick.
Good Luck,
Clint

From: rachelle 11/30/99
Subject: Re: HELP! My betta has ich! (I think)

Thanks Clint! I think Turk is losing some of the spots actually.
One more question because you got me worried about Froggie now! =} Is there anyway you can find out if he'll be okay with the ich medicine? Because I also bought this copper solution (like the one you wrote down in one of you article) which also helps prevent ich. I want to use it, but I'm not sure if it will be good for Froggie now.
Thanks again!
Rachelle

From: Clint 12/01/99
Subject: Re: HELP! My betta has ich! (I think)

Froggie is safe with copper, no worries there. But there are a lot of ick (ich) medicines out there and they are all a little different.
Also note that the drop in temperature in Winter usually increases the cases of Ick, so if Betta's tank is unheated in a cool room that might be whats bringing it on, the frogs are fine down to 69F, just a little slower.
Clint

From: chris 11/27/99
Subject: betta diseases

I have 5 bettas and care for them scrupulously. I change water 2 times a week and feed them Betta bio gold and Betta bites. They are in individual 1/2 gallon bowls. they were doing ok until recently. One has developed what looks like big lips. His lips are not white or I would suspect cottonmouth. I have tried Betta Max with no results. He is not eating. Every time he snaps at the food, he "overshoots" and gets very little if any. I am really concerned about this and there is no one at pet stores etc. that can help. Also, the water in his bowl and in a couple other bowls seems to be very scummy with lots of white slimy stuff floating around. I try to remove any uneaten food with a straw but other than the bio gold which floats to the bottom intact, I know I miss some. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

From: Clint 11/27/99
Subject: Re: betta diseases

I think the white slimey stuff is coming from the air (most especially so if they are near the kitchen). You can stop it by covering thier jars with a thin cloth.
I really don't know what to make of the "big lips" thing other than it might be a tumor of some kind (hopeless)or it might be a goiter problem which can be cured with regular table salt that includes iodine, about a teaspoon for your half gallon bowl.
Good Luck,
Clint

From: M.Z.T. 11/24/99
Subject: Water changing

This may sound like a stupid question, but are you supposed to take the fish out of the tank before you do a water change?

From: sao 11/27/99
Subject: Re: Water changing

Don't remove your fish if you're doing a water change.. You probably already know (but just incase) if you're doing a water change you should only be changing a 1/4 to 1/3 of it, not emptying the entire contents of the tank..
cheers
sao

From: stuart smith 11/24/99
Subject: Re: Water changing

no do not remove the fish.
if u have to remove the fish for some reason remove them and put them in a bucket of the same tank water that they were in.
but there is usually no reason to remove the fish while doing water changes.

From: Simon 11/22/99
Subject: Poorly Zebra Danio

I have a zebra danio that has lost its balance and has red markings around the gills. I have tried water changes, revitaliser and anti internal bacteria treatments but the fish is just about hangin on. All other fish in the tank appear to be fine. Any ideas ??

From: Clint 11/22/99
Subject: Re: Poorly Zebra Danio

Hi Simon,
I've all ready answered in email, But I really want to say that getting him away from the other fish is a priority.
Also you can add about 2 teaspoons of salt (per gallon) to his water when you get him separated.
Good Luck,
Clint

From: marcus 11/22/99
Subject: mini-paladrium help (betta follow-up)

here's what i've come up with. i want to set up a paladrium for my bettas and african dwarf frogs. that way the frogs can take a stroll out on land if they want.
any suggestions on how i can make a 5.5 gallon paladrium work? i.e. plants that can survive there, filtration and heater choices and placement, etc?
and i will be getting a friend's 10-gallon tank in about 3-weeks. will a 10 gallon be too big for a betta-spawning tank?
thanks by the way to clint and diana for replying to my first question.

From: Clint 11/22/99
Subject: Re: mini-paladrium help (betta follow-up)

If you are keeping "Dwarf African Frogs" then they don't need an island, they are totally aquatic.
But the way to make a 5.5 gallon paladrium is to cut (or get it cut) a piece of glass that is as wide as your tank is and halve the tank with it, make the height as high as you want (the height you want the water) and silicone the glass in place, put an UG filter in the dry half and fill it with gravel, turn the output of the filter toward the "wet" end. Use "bog" plants for the "dry" side (which is really filled with water too). The UG filter will work fantastically because of all the gravel. And a heater really won't be needed unless your home or the location of the tank is in an unheated area. Otherwise you can hide the heater behind some decor on the wet side.
Good Luck,
Clint
PS On the Bettas spawning, I was trying to convey that spawning should be done in a separte tank, the Bettas fry are never moved until they are 2 months or so old, the male is moved out.
CN

From: marcus 11/23/99
Subject: Re: mini-paladrium help (betta follow-up)

thanks again. will show you a photo once i get it running.
so if the dwarf frogs are totally aquatic, they probably wouldn't want to go on land then? what animals do go on land? i'm kinda interested in this paladrium business now.
marcus

From: Clint 11/23/99
Subject: Re: mini-paladrium help (betta follow-up)

You can tell for certain if they are Dwarf Frogs (if they have webbed front feet, they are).
For really aphibious creatures, heres a few:
Firebelly Newts, turtles, crabs, and there's several types of frogs that do go on land sometimes.
Clint

From: Diana 11/22/99
Subject: Re: mini-paladrium help (betta follow-up)

Im not really sure but have been wanting to do the same thing with my 55g tank -its bottem is cracked on one end so that will be the "land" end-
I am verry interested in what others who know more may suggest.
There are several websights that I have seen about plants. One in particular has some beautifull plants that root in the water and the vines creep up out of the tank -or in your case maybe the "land" part- and create beautifull purple flowers that are verry fragrent.
for plant and fish info I suggest checking out badmand tropical fish page.

the Biotope and aquatic plant sections might intrest you.
Good luck and hope to see a photo of your setup when you've finished

From: Nan 11/21/99
Subject: Have angelfish question

While visiting a friend in Issaquah, WA, I roamed several pet stores for the heck of it. I found a large (about
five inches from top fin tip to bottom fin tip}, unusual angelfish, called a Pearlscale Koi Angel. It was on
consignment with the petstore, from a private hobbyiest. I brought it
home with me, for our 55 gal. aquarium. Oddly, every single fish in the aquarium, from the baby angels to the
gourami, started picking at it. I rescued it to a ten gallon tank, and took a very close look. It seemed to have
some red streaking at the base of its side fins, and a little around its mouth. If angelfish are anything
like koi, that could mean blood poisoning, or just poor water conditions. I added salt, and extra oxygen. It
seems normally active ... but I haven't seen it eating. We've tried flake, Hakari, small floating pellets, and a
special angelfish food with krill, fish oil, algae and marine sponges in a tasty gel. Does anyone have any
suggesting or ideas?

From: Eddie 11/21/99
Subject: Re: Have angelfish question

Get Jungle's Fungus Eliminator, it will cure that red stuff, it may also have internal parasites. Put the temp to 80º, keep light at a low, and try to feed it guppy fry or smashed snails, or adult brine shrimp to see if it eats, if not, keep the guppy fry in the same tank just in case it gets hungry. It should be better in a week.

From: Sherrie 11/21/99
Subject: Betta

I recently got a betta. I was reading your e-mail archives, the one on velvet, and was wondering if mine has it. The tips of his fins on the bottom appear whitish. The guy at the pet store said they needed three types of food and he gave me BettaMin (flakes), Bettas (pellets for enhancing color), and Blood Worms. The BettaMin say to feed 2-3 times daily, Bettas 1 daily, and Blood Worms 1-2 weekly. My question is how often do I feed him all of these. Is it something like 8a.m. BettaMin, 3p.m. Bettas, 11p.m. BettaMin on Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, & Saturday. The same schedule for Monday and Thursday with Blood Worms at 7p.m. or is this too much food? Is there a way to treat velvet without using salt or had a snail? I have a snail in the tank with him. I appreciate your help.
Sherrie & Alpa (the Betta)

From: Clint 11/21/99
Subject: Re: Betta

Snails aren't that adverse to a little salt in the water, but copper is definately out.
Feeding Bettas is not such a rigid chore as you think, a once a day feeding with different types of foods daily is just right for grown fish, anymore only hurts thrir health and makes more poop.
If the tips of his fins are whitish and maybe a bit clear then he is still growing his fins and there's no need to worry.
Good luck and don't get so worried about it, it's not that complicated, but your concern is admirable.
Clint

From: marcus 11/20/99
Subject: betta tank mates and spawning

i just got a 5.5 gallon tank and i bought a betta and 2 african dwarf frogs. is this okay? they seem to be fine. the betta pays no attention to the frogs (after he realized they weren't small enough to eat and that they weren't a threat to him).
also, i was planning to spawn the betta. i've read your spawning article and the e-mail archive, but i still have a few more questions.
1. will bettas spawn if there are non-fish tank mates (i.e. the frogs) in there with them?
2. if it is okay to keep the frogs in there with the spawning couple, i read in your article that 82 degrees Fahrenheit is the optimum temperature. will the frogs survive this? (obviously, if it's not okay to keep the frogs in there with them, this question is void).
i hope these are easy questions for you fish experts to answer. i'll be back soon.
thanks,
marcus

From: Clint 11/21/99
Subject: Re: betta tank mates and spawning

Hi Marcus,
It's never an advantage to have other fish (or frogs) in a spaning tank. The frogs will find the eggs and eat them.
Just keeping the frogs and Betta together is fine.
Dwarf African Frogs have no problems with 82F, they have a large temperature tolerance, they just slow down when it's cold and speed up when it's warm.
You'll have to have more than one tank to spawn Bettas anyway, you need a place to raise the fry.
Good Luck,
Clint

From: Diana 11/22/99
Subject: Re: betta tank mates and spawning (for clint)

you say in your post "You'll have to have more than one tank to spawn Bettas anyway, you need a place to raise the fry"
This is true, but only after they are big enough to be moved. The male is removed from the spawning tank after the fry are freeswimming, then later after you are certain they have developed enough you can move the fry to a grow out tank.
if you move them too much even in the cleaning of the tank before they are totaly developed they may become deformed. this I have heard is also somthing that can happen if the water you add on a waterchange is not the same temp or rushes in too fast, or if the Humidity is not high enough.
(just passing on something's you may or may not know already)

From: Diana 11/21/99
Subject: Re: betta tank mates and spawning

I personaly dont think it would be a good Idea to have the frog/Betta set up for a spawning situation
here are some reasons.
the frog Might eat all of the eggs OR The fry, asuming they live to the free swimming stage, will need to remain in the same container till they are old enough to be moved with as little disturbance in the water as possable to prevent them from deformations. The frog may see them as a sourse of food.
The frog could be be suseptible to the High heat and elevated humidity. Increesed risk for desease.
The male betta who will be carring for the eggs will be verry teritorial and the presence of the frog may stress him too much. he may even attack the frog if he sences his eggs are in danger.
I have more.. but I think you have my point

From: Tyesha 11/19/99
Subject: Betta's Fins

Well, a couple of months ago my Betta's fins, which had gotten prettty long anyways, had started to split. Now the ones on his back side look as though that have shed to atleast half the length that they were. I was thinking that it was fin rot but other than the fact that his fins have shed, everything seems fine with him. He's eating the way that he always has, there are no unnusual markings on him. The area where the shedding has occured looks rather ragged because his fins had started to split but other than that nothing has changed. I have him in the same 10 gallon tank with my Angel with a divider separating them because they fight so much and nothing is the matter with my Angel fish. What could this be? I have had the Betta for about 3 or 4 months now and he is pretty big. Just about the biggest one that I have had thus far.

From: Clint 11/19/99
Subject: Re: Betta's Fins

It's not uncommon for a Bettas fins to split. Thats especially true if he has a lot of swimming room, thats why a lot of "show" Bettas are kept in the small jars.
They should heal up soon with no problem. He was probably shadow boxing with the Angel or his own reflection.
But just in case I'll give my standard cure-all, add a little salt to the tank, not much more than a teaspoon per galoon should be fine.
Also make sure he's getting some "fresh" foods, something like frozen brine shrimp, or chopped earthworms, frozen bloodworms etc, something thats not dried. Flakes are good but all living things need some "fresh" foods.
I think I'll have an apple.
Clint

From: Kristen 11/19/99
Subject: Apple snails

Kitty Fish and Clint,
I did a little reading up on these guys (one thing I learned from this message board is research before you buy anything!) and the local pet stores around where I live sell basically 2 sizes - apple snails that grow to about the diameter of a quarter (ok for a 10 gallon tank) and then (as the guy I talked to decribed) the racquet ball-size variety! I think the big one could eat half a lettuce a week! I found a very informative website on apple snails, too.
The address is huizen.dds.nl/~snc/
I know the address looks a little odd, but the link does work. Anyhow, the site really gives you the rundown on what you need to know about these snails. Maybe a link to add to Petfish?

From: Clint 11/27/99
Subject: Re: Apple snails

It is an excellent site and I am going to add it to the links,
Thanks,
Clint

From: Diana 11/19/99
Subject: FISHLESS CYCLING

I mannaged to find my fishy disk so here it is. I hope many of you will try this. it works, its fast and safe !!Cycling Without Fish
For many years, the common method of cycling a tank has been to set everything up, then add a few hardy or "disposable" (a tern that I personally find somewhat offensive) fish, then wait 4-6 weeks until the bacterial colonies which convert ammonia into nitrites into nitrates have become established. It is very common at this point for the stress caused by toxic ammonia and / or nitrites to kill some or in extreme cases all of your starter fish, no matter how hardy they're supposed to be. In addition, it's a well known fact that the damage caused by high ammonia levels to the gills of a fish is, to some extent at least, permanent. Once the tank has been fully cycled, you can start adding fish slowly, usually at a rate of a couple every week or two, until capacity is reached. This slow addition allows time for the relatively small bacteria culture on your filter to grow until it can handle the increased bioload. If done incorrectly, for example by adding too many fish at once after the cycle, an ammonia/nitrites spike can occur before the bacterial colony can adjust.
What is the effect of the fish added during cycling? Quite simply, through their digestive tracts and the food that we feed them, they are a source of ammonia, which the beneficial bacteria require to live and to multiply. While the above method is the traditional way of cycling a tank, it is neither the only nor the best way..
In order to properly cycle a tank, all that's required is the filter media, water movement (to supply oxygen to the bacterial colonies, an introduction of the right type of bacteria, and a source of ammonia. The best and most efficient source of ammonia is (surprisingly) pure ammonia. The household cleaning variety is perfect for this use, but make sure that it does not contain any additives or perfumes before using!
In order to cycle a tank using ammonia, start everything up and add some gravel from an established tank or a few potted plants (their roots contain all of the necessary bacteria, and the plants themselves do not seem to be harmed by this process). Then simply add 4-5 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons per day until you get a nitrite spike. Once you have nitrites, cut the ammonia back to 2-3 drops per 10 gallons per day until the nitrites disappear. When you get a 0 ppm nitrites reading, you have a fully cycled tank.
The advantages to this method are several. First and most importantly, in my reckoning, is that no fish are harmed during the cycling process. This means that you don't have to risk the fish you really want in the tank to a nasty death, or alternatively, find a new home for several fish that you were using to cycle the tank and no longer want. Secondly, no matter how cheap the fish, I can guarantee that 10 or 20 mL of ammonia is cheaper!
Thirdly, and this is of particular interest, the tank will cycle much faster by this method. I have used this method twice, the first time was on a 45 G tank with a fluidized bed filter, the second was on a 10 G tank with a lowly sponge filter. The time for complete cycling of these tanks was 12 days and 14 days respectively. Compare that with the standard method which averages 4-6 weeks.
Finally, once the tank has been cycled, the bacterial colony created by this method can handle a large bioload immediately. The amount of ammonia added to the tank during the cycle is significantly higher than what would be contributed by a small number of hardy fish, therefore, a much larger, healthier bacterial colony exists at the end of the cycle using ammonia than would if you used fish. After cycling my 45 G, I immediately added 6 bosemani rainbowfish, 3 clown loaches and a plecostamus. This is far above the recommended stocking levels at the same stage if I had cycled with fish. All of the fish are very healthy, and there was no ammonia or nitrites spike after the addition of the fish.
The benefits of this method are obvious, and as far as I can tell, there are no disadvantages. Overdosing isn't a problem since there are no fish in the tank. Stop needlessly stressing / killing your fish. The next time you have a tank that you need to cycle, try this out. I guarantee you'll be pleased with the results.
Written by Chris Cow

From: Diana 11/18/99
Subject: nice message forum

Nice place with friendly people, verry few if any flames that I have seen so far.... think I just might stick arround
D
:)

From: Magda 11/18/99
Subject: Betta w/swollen belly

Hello everyone, just found this site. I bought a betta about a month ago from Petco. He looked
fine in the store. But when I set up his 2.5 tank w/ugf I notice that he looked like he swallowed
a 1/2" gravel. It is not dropsy. He has a huge stomach he's also bigger than my other betta,
so, I think he might be an old gent. I was thinking maybe its a hernia (lump inside him). But
could it be parasite? Is there anything I can do for him? He doesn't act like he's suffering. I
posted at another site but didn't get any answers. I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks.

From: Magda 11/19/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

Thank you all. He's definitely a male, saw him building
bubbles. There's definitely no sign of dropsy, except for
his huge round belly, the rest of his body is normal. I do
have some salt in the water. I'll get the Maracin II on my
way home. I will start feeding in the morning as well as in
the pm. Again thanks eveybody, maybe the Maracin II will help.

From: Clint 11/18/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly PS

There's always the possibility that he's a she, and filled with eggs. There are some female Bettas with long fins, though it is unusual.
CN

From: Clint 11/18/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

I think he does have dropsy, just not at an advanced state yet. I'd advise adding a teaspoon of salt per gallon and maybe get some Maracin II, a "store bought" remedy.
The salt will help him equalize the fluids in his body to the water he lives in, and the Maracin is supposed to cure dropsy (I haven't had experience with it) and it certainly can't hurt anything.
My normal response to questions about Betta life spans is 2 years, but a lucky few can get as old as 4 years old. The ones that live the longest are one that lived in real tanks, not bowls (usually). Nothing about fishkeeping is always right. or never say never etc.
Clint

From: Eddie 11/19/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

If Maracin doesn't work, try Jungle's Fungus Eliminator, it cures many diseases including dropsy.

From: Diana 11/18/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

If he shows no signes of suffering or being uncomfortable then Im not sure what might be going on. if his waste looks normal and he is happy then I would leave him be. However if he is constipated thats another story, constipation can cause your betta to look a bit.. fat.
2ways Ive found to tell if the male betta is an Older fish have to do with the finnage... is it long? I meen REALLY long? and does it kind of curl or crinkel arround the edges?
if the answers are yes then in my experiance you have an Older fish.
Ive had several of my male bettas live to a ripe Old age of 4 years and in allmost every one of them they have gotten a bit fatish with long crinkely fins.

From: Magda 11/18/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

Diana thanks for the answer. His fins are long but I think normal for bettas, they do not curl or crinkle
around the edges. What make me think he might be old is his length (about 2"). I don't think comstipation
(though he could be) make him look like a pregnant woman on her 9+ (overdue)month. I will let him be. He's
a beautiful fish. I'm only feeding once a day; 2 tiny betta pellet and 2 freezedried bloodworm. Thank you again.

From: Diana 11/18/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

Watch him for any signs of constipation.
and since you said it wasn't dropsy I guess you know what to look for there too.
IMHO-
you might want to up the feedings to more than once a day @2 pellets after you find out if he is naturaly fat or if there is a problem.
My feeding scedual is this and I have had healthy happy bettas.
2 baby cichlid pellets in the morning (6is AM for me)
1 grindle worm or 1 pellet arround noonish.
1 pellet around 10pm.
Of course I keep mine in habitats ranging between 1gal (the tiny one) to 10 gallons.
feel free to email me if you want/need more info or just want to chatt about bettas.
Diana

From: kitty fish 11/18/99
Subject: Re: Betta w/swollen belly

not to scare anyone, but i had a real fat betta for a while. he stayed fat and got fatter for about a month before developing dropsy and finally kicking it... id watch that betta close and keep water in top condition. good luck!
kitty fish

From: Clint 11/17/99
Subject: s`A^o 's Great Aquarium Pictures

s`A^o has some great pictures of her tanks at her site My Aquariums Collection
She should be proud of those beautiful tanks.
She has kindly allowed me ( I asked her for it) to put one picture at petfish.net though I haven't gotten it up yet, I will soon. If anyone else has pictures of your tank that I can use please let me know.