From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Re: microworms
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:28:48:
Re: (5481.html) microworms posted by szient on August 13, 100 at 07:44:34:
You might let the folks know how much you are charging for these. There could be quite a few interested that have fry. Kick
From: The FIsh Lady
8/13/00
Subject: Fish Lady going to be gone for a while
Posted by The FIsh Lady on August 13, 100 at 02:35:00:
I am going to be away from my computer for a while. If anyone needs anything e-mail me and I can check it at work, newsgirlhjaol.com. Kick on down there is a post after the idots guide to fish, it is a long one in the subject column, I forgot to tab and start writing the message in the message box, sorry you can delete it if you need
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Re: Fish Lady going to be gone for a while
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:24:51:
Re: (5478.html) Fish Lady going to be gone for a while posted by The FIsh Lady on August 13, 100 at 02:35:00:
If you don't mind, I think I will delete this message. If you want to post again, please do, but I falls at the end of the message thread and is, indeed, pretty long. Thanks for pointing it out. Kick
From: The Fish Lady 2
8/13/00
Subject: Re: Fish Lady going to be gone for a while..;)
Posted by (darkstar7aol.com) The Fish Lady 2 on August 13, 100 at 19:28:03:
Re: (5484.html) Re: Fish Lady going to be gone for a while posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:24:51:
Yippee! I don't know who you are but I hate you!! Just kidding. I accidentally(sp?) wandered here while preforming a search. My name is Shelden J. Walters the III.
From: Sandman
8/13/00
Subject: Stress Zyme and Stress Coat
Posted by (dsandmanmxhotmail.com) Sandman on August 13, 100 at 00:31:10:
I received advice to leave these products alone and I was just wondering: why are these products so popular? And so many people advocate their use? Is it true the bacteria culture is a hoax? And fish stores generally squirt stress coat into the bag that my fish come home in. Are these products really worthless?
From: CT
8/13/00
Subject: Re: Stress Zyme and Stress Coat
Posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 05:52:46:
Re: (5475.html) Stress Zyme and Stress Coat posted by Sandman on August 13, 100 at 00:31:10:
* You received good advice. These products should be left on the shelf. * These products are popular because their marketing messages sound plausible. The fact that the major chains squirt this stuff into the bag of every fish they sell shows the success of that message. Or is it that by doing this they sell a bunch of this stuff? When you go below the surface and ask these manufacturers for scientific details their story really breaks apart. Bottom line: The good guy bacteria in an aquarium are aerobic and cannot survive in a container without oxygen. Fish have no need for aloe vera in their water and their isn't enough scientific data available to back up their claim. * Stress coat does neutralize chlorine but it is over priced for that task. CT
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: CT, what do you use?
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:17:56:
Re: (5479.html) Re: Stress Zyme and Stress Coat posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 05:52:46:
I do use the Stress Coat but not the Stress Zyme. Right on the bottle of Stress Coat it reads that is does, indeed, contain aloe vera and replaces the protective slime coating of fish when moving. It removes Chlorine, neutralizes chloramines and detoxifies heavy metal. At www.thatpetplace.com it sells for $4.39/16 oz. or $24.89/l gallon. Am I correct when I think you stated that you use NovAqua and Amquel? The NovAqua states that it dechlorinates the water, provides a slime cloating for the fish and detoxifies heavy metals. It sells at this particular place for $5.89/16 oz. or $27.95/gal. The Amquel states that it protects fish by removing ammonia, chlorine and chloramines and must be used with salycilate tests. It sells for $5.89/16 oz. or $27.95/l gallon. All of these products suggest one teaspoon per l0 gallons of water. My question here is why do you think that the stress coat is any different from these other products and why you think it is more expensive? To my estimation of thinking these products are basically the same, the stress coat is cheaper and the aloe definitely will not "hurt" the fish even though it may not be "needed". Don't want to fuss with you here, just want you to make me understand your side of this. Maybe I am not correct on what you do use in your tanks for a condtioner, but still with all of them I see in the catalogs, they do basically the same thing, but the stress coat is still cheaper in comparison. Kick
From: CT
8/13/00
Subject: I use and recommend AmQuel and NovAqua in combination
Posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 12:27:11:
Re: (5482.html) CT, what do you use? posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:17:56:
Yes, I use NovAqua and AmQuel in combination and they are not cheap. * AmQuel is a patented formula that is well documented on the Kordon website (http://www.novalek.com/kpds.htm). They describe in detail how it works and even list the ingredient(s). * AmQuel is very effective in controlling ammonia levels while you're cycling a tank. It has saved my bacon a few times. * NovAqua has been around since the 70's, the formula is not patented and they do not list the ingredients. According to Kordon they will never list the ingredients for NovAqua because of too many imitators. Folks have had almost 30 years to beat the crap out of this product and it's still going strong without much fanfare. I think it's safe to say that Stress Coat is a cheap imitation of NovAqua with the Aloe Vera thrown in as marketing hype. There are no known problems if NovAqua is overdosed. * An actual person named John Farrell Kuhns created AmQuel and NovAqua. Nice to know there's a person behind the products rather than nameless/faceless guys in shop coats. * I have yet to find someone who has had any problems with the AmQuel/NovAqua combination. One person pointed me to a thread on the Krib (http://www.thekrib.com/) that claimed AmQuel kills invertebrates. This turned out to be in an extreme overdose situation -- but when used with NovAqua in combination inverts were fine even in the extreme overdose situations. * Stress Coat is cheap. And anyone who knows anything about marketing will tell you that price point is a key-determining factor regarding sales. * AP's Stress Coat product does not neutralize the Ammonia that is released once Chloramines have been unbound. Follow this link and you'll find that AP recommends their Ammo-Lock2 product to perform these vital functions: http://www.aquariumpharm.com/techref/aquarium/apb110.htm The label says that it neutralizes Chloramines but is misleading because it does not neutralize ammonia. This is marketing hype that can be dangerous to your fish. * I contacted AP on numerous occasions to get as much information as possible on Stress Coat and was literally run around in circles and then was sent a marketing brochure. * I've read posts on another board that Stress Coat causes water to foam in some cases. Although it wasn't determined to be harmful it was something that was unsightly and would cause me to be concerned. * I've read unverified accounts that it feeds algae and algae blooms can occur if Stress Coat is overdosed. That's the long and short of it. CT
From: ~deb
8/14/00
Subject: CT~ question, please
Posted by ~deb on August 14, 100 at 00:34:01:
Re: (5500.html) I use and recommend AmQuel and NovAqua in combination posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 12:27:11:
Any special instructions for changing from Stress Coat to AmQuel/NovAqua?
From: CT
8/14/00
Subject: That is an excellent question!
Posted by CT on August 14, 100 at 12:27:05:
Re: (5528.html) CT~ question, please posted by ~deb on August 14, 100 at 00:34:01:
People seldom think about how certain water treatments may interact with one another. You go to the head of the class! I don't think you'll encounter any problems changing over but... At the risk of striking fear into you: I have heard of instant fish death and an ungodly smell when certain water conditioners are mixed (something like 3 or 4 at a time and I do not recall the combinations and this info is second hand at best). That said, I recommend that you send Kordon and AP an email and ask them if there are any known issues making this change. Please report back what you find. BTW, I (and others that I've talked to) use AmQuel/NovAqua at the rate of 10 drops each per gallon. It's easier to dispense than per capful. CT
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Hmmm....Interesting
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 19:28:55:
Re: (5500.html) I use and recommend AmQuel and NovAqua in combination posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 12:27:11:
Thanks CT for "verifying" why you use these products. I have used Stress Coat from day l as it is readily available and seems to have been the product of choice for many fishkeepers around my area. However, I do, in fact, fight problems with algae, both brown and green, so now I am wondering if along with the other factors, if the Stress Coat could be a cause. However, my one community tank has never, ever had problems with algae and that is what I use in there. Maybe I will invest in your choice of products to see how it goes. I have just never had any problems with the Stress Coat and have used it forever. Thanks for the reply. Kick
From: CT
8/13/00
Subject: A correction
Posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 14:18:56:
Re: (5500.html) I use and recommend AmQuel and NovAqua in combination posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 12:27:11:
AP's Stress Coat only costs about a dime more than their regular dechlorinator. So as a dechlorinator it is not overpriced. CT
From: dana
8/12/00
Subject: administering medicine
Posted by (XdanajoXaol.com) dana on August 12, 100 at 22:48:38:
If I need to put some meds in my tank for fungus or something and I have a filter that has activated carbon in it and a bio-wheel, what do I do about removing the filter as per the directions on the medicine? Don't I need to keep my filter in at all times? thanks, dana
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Re: administering medicine
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:32:32:
Re: (5473.html) administering medicine posted by dana on August 12, 100 at 22:48:38:
The biowheel you will leave alone. This keeps and maintains a very good culture of your bacteria. However, the filter containing the carbon should be removed if it is fairly new. The carbon will take away the effectiveness of the medication. If the filter has been in place for quite a while, removing it is not completely necessary, however, I do to be sure that the medication will work at its best potential. Just remove the carbon packet and throw away, but leave the rest of the filter running as it usually does. After treatment, just replace the carbon filter with a new one. Kick
From: dana
8/13/00
Subject: Re: administering medicine
Posted by (XdanajoXaol.com) dana on August 13, 100 at 12:46:22:
Re: (5486.html) Re: administering medicine posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:32:32:
Thanks for the info, again. I don't know if I should go right into another question here or not, but I'll try it - Are kissing gouramis bottom feeders? I have 5 and I don't see them eat as the food falls. It looks like they are feeding off the bottom, but very little food makes it down there for them. Thanks, dana
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Re: administering medicine
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 19:10:47:
Re: (5502.html) Re: administering medicine posted by dana on August 13, 100 at 12:46:22:
No they are not ordinarily bottom feeders. Mine feed from the top whenever the food is dropped in. Are they being crowded out at the top by other fish. Sometimes any fish will check out the bottom to see if there are any crums there, but they should be getting most of their nutrients from the top. Kick
From: Lynn
8/12/00
Subject: New Board
Posted by (jle_stablehotmail.com) Lynn on August 12, 100 at 21:37:20:
Come visit my new board!(please) http://www.sitepowerup.com/mb/view.asp?BoardID=123030
From: helper
8/13/00
Subject: Re: New Board
Posted by helper on August 13, 100 at 19:29:47:
Re: (5471.html) New Board posted by Lynn on August 12, 100 at 21:37:20:
How come she can post boards and i can't???? Thats harable!!(sp?)
From: Kick
8/14/00
Subject: Re: New Board
Posted by Kick on August 14, 100 at 16:18:27:
Re: (5516.html) Re: New Board posted by helper on August 13, 100 at 19:29:47:
Did you happen to notice that no one responded to her any more than we responded to you when you posted your board. It just has not been deleted yet. Kick
From: stu
8/12/00
Subject: plants that plant eaters wont eat
Posted by (stumarshotmail.com) stu on August 12, 100 at 19:20:33:
hey. do use know if any plants that plant eating fish wont eat. like my silver dollars have eaten everything iv'e tried. they even ate amazon swords and java fern , i got told they wouldnt eat them. thnx.
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: Re: plants that plant eaters wont eat
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 22:34:36:
Re: (5468.html) plants that plant eaters wont eat posted by stu on August 12, 100 at 19:20:33:
I've never seen anything eat a java fern -- I've heard that they are too bitter for fish or snails to eat. Your fish may be craving veggies, try introducing some spiralina flakes or tabs. You may try getting plants like Vals that grow quickly. That way the fish can nibble and the plants will still survive. CT
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Re: plants that plant eaters wont eat
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:40:18:
Re: (5472.html) Re: plants that plant eaters wont eat posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 22:34:36:
I hate to tell you this, but there are "no" live plants that you can keep in with silver dollars. They will eat off to the substrate any plants that you try. I learned this first hand many years ago when setting up a 55 gallon tank. Had it all very nicely planted, and it was beautiful. Found some silver dollars on sale and just had to have them (bought 3). I thought if I kept lettuce in the tank for them at all times, they would leave the plants alone. Well, to make a long story longer, the very next morning, everything, and I do mean "everything" was "gone". They had eaten all the plants clear down to the substrate and even the lettuce was nothing but a nubbin attached to the clip. They ate my swords, wisteria, java fern and all my grasses. Hence, this beautiful tank is now decorated with lovely "plastic" live-looking plants....hehe...because I would rather have the silver dollars than the plants. Kick
From: CT
8/13/00
Subject: Well then, use only plastic plants with Silver Dollars! :-) (n/m)
Posted by CT on August 13, 100 at 12:33:38:
Re: (5488.html) Re: plants that plant eaters wont eat posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:40:18:
n/m
From: Carissa
8/12/00
Subject: thinking of going to live plants...
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 12, 100 at 14:00:12:
I would like to add live plants to my tank rather than keeping the plastic. Can anyone give me a few tips as to what kind to get, the care, etc.etc. I know I need more gravel for one thing, but should I have something other than just gravel in my substrate? What about using plant fertilizer? How many hours of light do they need per day? Should I go with rooting plants first or floating? Is the CO2 pump thing worth investing in? Another potential obstacle to this is that my pet shop has very few live plants (last time I was there, they had some in one tank, that was it). I am hoping they will get more in though (since the next closest pet shop is an hour's drive). Does anyone know of a place that will mail order plants to Canada?
From: kitty fish
8/13/00
Subject: Buying live plants online...
Posted by (kitty_fishpetfish.net) kitty fish on August 13, 100 at 09:33:04:
Re: (5461.html) thinking of going to live plants... posted by Carissa on August 12, 100 at 14:00:12:
www.azgardens.com is a fantastic website that sells plants, rocks, driftwood, etc. They ship worldwide, so no problem there. Visit the site and see what you think. I'll bet they have a much larger selection that your pet shop. ;) kitty fish
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: This link will get you started
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 14:13:52:
Re: (5461.html) thinking of going to live plants... posted by Carissa on August 12, 100 at 14:00:12:
http://www.petfish.net/eplant.htm CT
From: stuart
8/12/00
Subject: Re: Planted tank
Posted by (stuart.hambyfallon.com) stuart on August 12, 100 at 14:38:26:
Re: (5465.html) This link will get you started posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 14:13:52:
Hey, go for it. I recently converted my tank from plastic to live and the fish seem 100% happier. This is what I did to my 29 G high and everything is thriving. First off, do not use an under ground (gravel) filter, evidently the root systems cannot handle the constant water flow. I invested in two seperate filters (both designed for a 30 gal aquarium) about $20 each which cycle the water through both a charcole and sponge media. I have directed the flow from the filters toward the plants to keep them in a steady but slow motion. Evidently this keeps microscopic debris from collecting which can cause the dreaded algea spots. Lighting is crucial. Anyone can correct me if I am wrong but I believe that it has to be at least 1.5 watts per gallon I only have two 20 watt flourescents for my 29 gal and things look good. I don't think a carbon pump is necessary, if you have fish they will provide the needed CO2. Currently I am adding both a root as well as a liquid water supplement, I don't know if these are really necessary but I don't think that they can hurt. Start off with moderate light plants if you are unsure that you have met the lighting requirements. A good low light plant (though I have never tried it) is Java fern. Good luck, it is definitly worth the investment! stu
From: Kick
8/13/00
Subject: Re: Planted tank--but what fish are in the tank?
Posted by Kick on August 13, 100 at 09:43:17:
Re: (5466.html) Re: Planted tank posted by stuart on August 12, 100 at 14:38:26:
As you will note from Stu's post up above, certain fish will eat live plants. Make sure the fish you are keeping in this tank are not herbivores or they won't last long. Kick
From: Ruthie
8/12/00
Subject: Ich.. not responding to treatment?
Posted by Ruthie on August 12, 100 at 08:09:18:
My fish have ich.. I've raised the temp to 85 and added salt. I've been treating with Aquarisol for 4 days. The fish still have spots and they're scratching like crazy. I'm doing a water change this afternoon. I can't use methylene (sp) blue because I have cory cats. How long should the treatment take? I feel sorry for them. Thanks.
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: Re: Ich.. not responding to treatment?
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 09:57:04:
Re: (5439.html) Ich.. not responding to treatment? posted by Ruthie on August 12, 100 at 08:09:18:
* Does the ich appear to be spreading or getting worse? * Methylene Blue is a fungus treatment. * Malachite Green can be used as an ich treatment at 1/2 dose with sensitive fish. * You need to treat for ich for at least ten days. * I would probably start feeding with Tetra's anti-bacterial food to guard against secondary infection if the outbreak is particularly bad. CT
From: Kick
8/12/00
Subject: Re: Ich.. not responding to treatment?
Posted by Kick on August 12, 100 at 10:39:21:
Re: (5446.html) Re: Ich.. not responding to treatment? posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 09:57:04:
I don't want to disagree with CT, but I would NOT use anything with malachite green. I used the standard of l/2 dose and had serious problems in my tank, losing many fish and it stained alot of things in my tank. Give the Aquari-sol time to work. I think the sometimes it can take up to l0 days. And are you adding it every day and in the correct dosage of l2 drops per l0 gallons of water? Do not clean or change the water in your tank until the ick spots are gone on the fish. If there are still spots, you will do nothing more than probably make is worse as the ick is free floating in your aquarium still. Did you remove the carbon filter from your tank as the directions suggest? Even tho they say you can leave if it is old, I always remove it. Give the medication a few more days to work, and like CT susggested, I probably would also use some antibacterial to guard against infection. Kick
From: J.D. Martin
8/12/00
Subject: Lost fish in 2 different tanks-any ideas?
Posted by J.D. Martin on August 12, 100 at 07:18:59:
Hi, Things have been going well, but this week I lost 2 fish in 2 different tanks. First, in my 10g, my serpia tetra was fine in the morning, ate w/others, etc. and I came home and found him dead. It is very possible he died of old age. He was one of the first 2 fish I bought when I set my tank up 3 years ago. If this is the case, do fish just die suddenly? He was not harrassed or sickly, etc. There was no obvious sign of death. The other was a young female cherry barb in my 5g (w/2 males, 1 female). She looked as if she had swim bladder as she struggled to get to the surface and then sank back down. I put in some aq. salt and this seemed to help her for a couple of days, but then she died. No other sign of death. I tried to find out how she would have gotten sick, so I could be preventative w/the others in the tank, but no luck. All the rest of my stock in both tanks seem fine, but of course, I am worried. All chemical tests were fine, water changes, carbon, etc. all done faithfully. I know fish just die, but I just wanted to be sure there wasn't something I could look for so I wouldn't lose others. Thanks.
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: Check for stress
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 10:01:30:
Re: (5438.html) Lost fish in 2 different tanks-any ideas? posted by J.D. Martin on August 12, 100 at 07:18:59:
Keep checking for signs of stress in your tanks. They may me isolated cases or caused by an unidentified stressor. CT
From: Kick
8/12/00
Subject: Re: Check for stress
Posted by Kick on August 12, 100 at 10:44:39:
Re: (5447.html) Check for stress posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 10:01:30:
Sounds like the cherry barb could have had swim bladder, but most of what I have seen with it, is they keep floating to the top no matter how hard they try to swim, like their tummies are full of air. But upon reading, it could also be the other way around. I would just keep an eye on the fish in this tank to watch for any further signs of problems. I would say the serpae died of old age. That is a long time for a tetra. Congrats for keeping him alive so long. And yes, fish sometimes just die with no visible signs. I know it makes us wonder what in the world we did wrong, but mostly it is ususally nothing. If all the others are doing well, I would not worry too much. Just keep and eye and let us know if further symptoms develop. Kick
From: Karen
8/12/00
Subject: Okay - here's what I ended up with . . .
Posted by Karen on August 12, 100 at 06:37:46:
Okay, gang . . After weeks of consideration, I have ended up with the following fish in my 20 gallon: 5 zebra danios 3 blackskirt tetras (just babies - so cute!) 2 green aeneus catfish (babies, also - even cuter!) (somebody please tell me how to pronounce these - I don't want to go around calling them "anus" catfish :-) This week, I will add one more fish. Most likely (at CT's suggestion) a Male Dwarf Gourami. So, it will eventually be: 5 zebra danios 3 blackskirt tetras 2 aeneus cory's 1 Dwarf Gourami (and a partridge in a pear tree ... Sorry, couldn't resist!) I've stuck to the "add a few fish each week" plan and it's worked beautifully! Thanks to everyone on the list who has helped me make every agonizing decision. I am having so much fun watching the fish. Feeding time is a frenzy - it's really cool to watch. You would think they haven't eaten for weeks! Thanks for letting me share! I am truly enjoying this message board! Karen :-)
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: Re: Okay - here's what I ended up with . . .
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 10:26:17:
Re: (5437.html) Okay - here's what I ended up with . . . posted by Karen on August 12, 100 at 06:37:46:
How big do blackskirt Tetras get? I can't seem to ID them. "AE" has an "E" sound in latin as in aesthetic, aestivate, aestuary (pronounced as short English e as in met). So you would end up with something like: eh-NE-us So which cory is it exactly? Go to the following link and let us know: http://www.planetcatfish.com/ilibrary/index.htm I have some of the Peru Green Stripes. CT
From: Karen
8/12/00
Subject: Blackskirt I.D.
Posted by Karen on August 12, 100 at 10:41:14:
Re: (5448.html) Re: Okay - here's what I ended up with . . . posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 10:26:17:
Okay, looks like my Corys are the "laser green". They are really flourescent green - very bright. I love these. Follow this link for black skirts (also known as black widows, or black tetras). They will be a maximum of 2" http://www.fish2u.com/medblacktetra.html whaddaya think? Karen :-)
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: Re: Blackskirt I.D.
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 11:39:31:
Re: (5451.html) Blackskirt I.D. posted by Karen on August 12, 100 at 10:41:14:
OK, I know these guys as Black Widow Tetras -- they get up to 2 inches. These fish should work out fine because they are hardy and some folks use them instead of Angels. IMHO, I don't think I would add the Dwarf Gourami. The Laser Greens are cool and hardy. You've made good choices all the way around. Did you pick up any test kits? Any plans for plants? CT
From: Sandman
8/12/00
Subject: New Aquarium Questions (Part 2)
Posted by (dsandmanmxhotmail.com) Sandman on August 12, 100 at 00:18:13:
Many thanks to Carissa, CT, and Barb for your advice. I realized after I bought my tetras that they may not have been the best choice. I wanted Zebra Danios, but the only store that carries fish near my house had a tank of Zebras that didn't look so good. Which brings me to my next question: My four tetras aren't quite getting along. Three of them school around just fine, but one of the fish hides from the others and every once in a while tries to join up again - but he always ends up in the corner. Will this problem persist or in time (after the tank is cycled) will having 6 or 7 of these fish remedy the problem. Thank you very much.
From: Carissa
8/12/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions (Part 2)
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 12, 100 at 14:10:44:
Re: (5431.html) New Aquarium Questions (Part 2) posted by Sandman on August 12, 100 at 00:18:13:
Is the fourth fish smaller than the others, or does he look sickly? I've had Zebras that did the same thing, but the ones that were singled out were usually the smallest ones, and when they got bigger they joined up again.
From: stuart
8/12/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions (Part 2)
Posted by (stuart.hambyfallon.com) stuart on August 12, 100 at 14:50:43:
Re: (5464.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions (Part 2) posted by Carissa on August 12, 100 at 14:10:44:
I had the same problem with my Columbian tetras (aka blood fins). Originally I started out with 4. Noone got along and I was disappointed that they were not a cohesive schooling unit. However after adding two more of the same species/size there has been a 100% change in how the group interacts. There are no longer any straglers or sad faces in the corners of the tank. stu
From: Sandman
8/13/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions (Part 2)
Posted by (dsandmanmxhotmail.com) Sandman on August 13, 100 at 00:23:32:
Re: (5467.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions (Part 2) posted by stuart on August 12, 100 at 14:50:43:
The fourth is a small guy, but he's pretty much the same size as the others. Well . . . I guess I'll just wait and see what happens when he gets bigger or I add more fish. Thanks for the advice!
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: To Michelle and Vince..continued from post below
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 22:32:54:
There was so much confusion below concerning your new little tank that I thought I would just post here so it would be easier to see and I could try to answer most of your questions. If I miss one or two, let me know here. Concerning the overcrowding question and how the fish will act. Could be different ways. Gasping for air or coming to the surface frequently is a sure sign of poisoning in the tank. You know something is not right if they quit eating. Also if they lay on the bottom. If he/she is still alive but not looking too good, change a major portion of the water. Also are you using some kind of conditioner to remove chlorines and to neutralize chloramines in the water. This will also certainly poison the fish. Basically all tap water has some form of chlorine in it, and this is very deadly. Now, if this fish does not make it, and you decide you want to go with tropicals, that will be okay. But you really should break this small tank down and clean it and basically start over. Goldfish sometimes harbor disease and since (I can't look at this one last sick one) we don't know for sure what the problem is, you don't want to pass anything along to your new inhabitants. When you get the tank up and running again, let it sit empty of fish for one week. After that time, just add "2" "hardy" fish, all depending on what you think you might like to have. About the only ones I will tell you for sure that you "don't" want to start with are neon tetras. They do not do well in a new tank. Zebra danios are good as are other tetras and barbs. These fish are egglayers and what I keep. I am not much into the livebearers such as mollies, swordtails or platys, but I do keep fancy guppies, and usually they do pretty well in a beginning tank. Some mix and match the livebearers and egglayers, but I just never had any luck so stick to one or the other. Go shopping and if you see something you think you might like to have, check out some things about them first. Find out how big they will grow (bala sharks are usually very small in the LPS but can grow to be a foot long), the water requirements for keeping and if the ones you choose are schoolers, or have to be one per tank and if they will get along well with each other. This will save you a lot of headaches later on. After the addition of "2" fish, if everything during that week is going okay, then add 2 more. Do this every week until your tank is stocked, and of course, stop adding fish if problems arise in your tank until you get them straightened out. If you do keep tropicals, you will need a heater and thermometer so that you can keep the temp. in the tank constant. They do not do well with fluctuations. The beginning week of no fish gives you time to get the heater adjusted properly and to check your pH after it has stabilized in the tank. Now here is a subject that I am not really too fussy about. I never worry about my pH and probably only check every month or so. As long as my buddies are getting along okay, don't appear to be stressed, are eating and frolicking around in the tank, I don't worry about it. I don't even worry too awful much about ammonia, nitrites or nitrates unless I see signs that something looks amiss. You can drive yourself nuts over all this stuff. I am sure that I have probably left something out that you want to know, but just bear with all of us, and we will get that tank up and running with "some" kind of fish for you. Let me know what else I can do to help you. Kick
From: To KICK from Vince
8/12/00
Subject: Re: To Michelle and Vince..continued from post below
Posted by To KICK from Vince on August 12, 100 at 08:51:40:
Re: (5426.html) To Michelle and Vince..continued from post below posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 22:32:54:
Thanks again. Your help is greatly appreciated. We did loose the last one yesterday so we will start again. In the end the fish were laying down at the bottom and eating very little. One of the moors had also developed many small white spots. I did change the water frequently about 1/3 every 7-10 days and days and more frequntly when I started loosing fish. I also added AQUA PLUS weekly to treat the tap water, as well as CYCLE and WASTE CONTROL (These solutions came with the starter kit). I fed the gold fish 2-3 times a day (small amounts) as directed on the side of the NUTRAFIN MAX goldfish flake food tin, but should I ever try goldfish again in the future, I'll reduce that significantly. When I clean out the tank, I know not to use chemicals or detergents, but is OK to use a small amount of bleach (sodium hypochlotite)? I will also change both the foam and charcoal filters on the AQUA CLEAR MINI filter, as well as wash all gravel and plastic plants. I intend to buy a heater as you suggested for the tropicals. The book I have recommends you multiply the gallon capacity of the tank by five to calculate the size of heater required i.e. 50 watts for a 10 gallon tank. Is this what you would recommend? One last question if I may. How do you make sure that the water temperature of water you are adding to the tank, when changing the water, is approximately the same temperature as what is in the tank, especially for tropical fish. Do you use hot and cold tap water and measure with a thermometer. I know I wasn't as careful to prevent sudden water temperature changes in the tank with the goldfish and I've since learned that this can easily stress the fish and make them more susceptible to diseases and parasites. Thank you Kindly, Vince
From: Kick
8/12/00
Subject: Re: To Michelle and Vince..continued from post below
Posted by Kick on August 12, 100 at 10:33:34:
Re: (5441.html) Re: To Michelle and Vince..continued from post below posted by To KICK from Vince on August 12, 100 at 08:51:40:
The white spots you were seeing the moor probably was ick. This is definitely caused from stressful conditions. (Since the fish are all gone now, we won't get into the diseases...you will have enough questions about that later). I don't add any chemicals to my tank other than conditioner to rid the water of chlorine and chloramines. All the other stuff that came with your tank is a gimick to me. I just don't use them. Cycle is supposed to cycle your tank faster, but I just do it the old fashioned way and I have lost very few fish in all my 7 tanks. I don't know much about the WASTE CONTROL product, but in my estimation you have to have waste in order for your tank to cycle properly so I probably would not use that either. Feed the fish no more than twice a day. And really once per day for tropicals if fine. The biggest issue in any tank is to not OVERFEED. This is where the food companies get you. The more you feed, the more you have to buy and this keeps them in business. But overfeeding adds more waste which in turn messes up the water and any uneated food lies in the bottom to rot and cause problems. Fish have tiny little brains and will always think they are hungry because they can't remember they have eaten about 5 minutes after they have done so. So underfeeding is much better than overfeeding. When cleaning the tank, you can use regular household bleach. And in the case of the moor with white spot (ick), I would highly recommend it. Do not use bleach on the rocks. They are porous and will absorb the chemicals and then release it into your new tank water. But the plants, decorations and tank can be cleaned with this. Rinse very, very good and be sure to use the conditioner on the last rinse to be sure to remove any that may be left behind. I would replace the filter media with new. A 50 watt heater would be adequate for this size tank. And I much prefer the submersible heaters over the hang on tank kind. They are a little more expensive, but do a much better job of heating as you can place them in the middle of the back of the tank. When doing water changes, (I have a python system....I fill my tanks directly from my tap with a hose), I use a thermometer using hot and cold water mixed to establish the correct temp. Here again, make sure that you use the conditioners to remove the bad chemicals. One note here on the heater...when you do water changes, if the water will fall below the heater, always make sure to unplug it. Otherwise, the dryness and the heat will make the heater explode. I think I have covered everything you needed in this post. I will be watching for you so let me hear from you if you need anything at all. Kick
From: Carissa
8/11/00
Subject: building an aquarium
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 11, 100 at 15:57:51:
Does anyone know anything about building an aquarium from scratch? Has anyone out there done it successfully?
From: Barb
8/11/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium
Posted by Barb on August 11, 100 at 21:17:51:
Re: (5405.html) building an aquarium posted by Carissa on August 11, 100 at 15:57:51:
Sounds like way too much work for me! Following is a link for tank building: http://members.xoom.com/tankbuilders/index.htm Good luck, Barb
From: Carissa
8/12/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 12, 100 at 13:47:17:
Re: (5415.html) Re: building an aquarium posted by Barb on August 11, 100 at 21:17:51:
Thank you for your reply...but that site doesn't seem to exist anymore. :(
From: Barb
8/13/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium
Posted by Barb on August 13, 100 at 11:22:53:
Re: (5458.html) Re: building an aquarium posted by Carissa on August 12, 100 at 13:47:17:
Try it this way: http://members.xoom.com/tankbuilder/TOC.htm Barb
From: Mandy
8/11/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium?
Posted by Mandy on August 11, 100 at 20:02:37:
Re: (5405.html) building an aquarium posted by Carissa on August 11, 100 at 15:57:51:
well, what do u mean? you can try putting rocks into a fishbowl and an aquarium plant, water and a fish w/dechlorinator. Try live, small bait (i.e.small shrimp for goldfish) for the fish (depends what kind it is).
From: Carissa
8/12/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium?
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 12, 100 at 13:44:44:
Re: (5410.html) Re: building an aquarium? posted by Mandy on August 11, 100 at 20:02:37:
I was specifically speaking of actually constructing an aquarium (i.e. from glass/plexiglas, etc.).
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium?
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 21:27:54:
Re: (5410.html) Re: building an aquarium? posted by Mandy on August 11, 100 at 20:02:37:
I do understand what you are talking about and years ago, it was a practical and good way to get just what you wanted in a tank. However, with all the new sizes and shapes of aquariums today, I don't see why anyone would want to do this (unless it is for a science project or something). The ready-made tanks are much more economical, and you can feel pretty safe that the materials used will be safe for the fish, and in most cases will not leak after time. Check out the site noted above and if you decide to try this....good luck. Kick
From: Carissa
8/12/00
Subject: Re: building an aquarium?
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 12, 100 at 14:07:07:
Re: (5417.html) Re: building an aquarium? posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 21:27:54:
I was mostly just thinking about it for economical reasons (I don't need a special shape or anything). I'm going to check around and see what the cost is for the materials to make it out of plexiglas...I'm also keeping an eye out for used tanks, but I don't think there's a place you can buy a new 50 gallon around here (I'm in a pretty isolated part of Canada), and if you did find a new one it would most likely be very over-priced...and the cost of shipping one here would also be pretty high, I would imagine. But all the same I think I would have a little more peace of mind if I bought one new...I don't want to wake up one morning to find 50 gallons of water and dead fish on the floor... :)
From: Sandman
8/11/00
Subject: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by (dsandmanmxhotmail.com) Sandman on August 11, 100 at 15:08:21:
I once had a 10 gallon tank years ago, but have recently decided to buy a 20 gallon aquarium. I purchased it, set it up, and it is up and running as we speak. I have four Neon Tetras in the tank right now and they've been doing fine for a couple days now. I have a bunch of questions that I would really appreciate your help in answering: 1. What are your thoughts on the products Stress Zyme and Stress Coat - do they really work? Are they worth the money? 2. How long should the aquarium lights be on in an unplanted tank? I would like them on as little as possible to cut down on algae growth. Would the fish benefit from regularly kept "light" hours? My tetras seem to freak out and dart all over the aquarium whenever I shut out the lights. Is this caused by the fact they're new, or is it common? 3. I have a power filter and I was wondering if I should only replace the bag and carbon when I change the filter material (leaving the old frame in place)? Or should I replace the frame and all? Would it help the bacteria growth if I left the original one? 4. What are the benefits of heavy aeration? Are there downsides to heavy aeration? Should I turn them off when feeding? 5. How should one wash products that go into tanks to avoid contamination - nets, gravel vacuum, hands, etc.? 6. My Tetras are not really eating aggressively like I remember my fish doing in the past - I'm feeding them once a day and just a pinch at that. How long will it take for them to become used to their environment and feed regularly. 7. Should you use the same bucket that you empty old water into from your tank to pour new water back into the tank? Or should you have two - one for emptying and one for restoring? I really appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you very much.
From: Carissa
8/11/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by (Fissionroadruner.nf.net) Carissa on August 11, 100 at 15:53:34:
Re: (5402.html) New Aquarium Questions. posted by Sandman on August 11, 100 at 15:08:21:
I don't consider myself an expert by any means, but I can make a few cracks at some of your questions (if anyone thinks I'm off, please correct me): 3. I had a power filter in my 20 gallon for years, and I rarely replaced the frame (I'm assuming it's the kind where there's a floss bag that fits over a frame and has carbon in it). To be honest, I probably didn't replace the floss as often as I should have...but the fish seemed to be doing fine. 4. Since you have a power filter, I don't think heavy airration is necessary...the purpose is just to circulate the water so that it can continually absorb oxygen at the surface, so since your power filter is probably creating some current I wouldn't bother with having heavy airration. I've found that it makes it harder to feed the fish anyway, and some fish don't like really strong currents. Someone else might know a little more about this though. 5. Everything I've heard about washing things that go in the aquarium is to just use hot tap water, and NO detergents or soap. If you get heavy algae growth on your plastic plants/decorations, it might work to use a new toothbrush as well. 7. I've always had one bucket set aside for aquarium use, one that hasn't had any detergents or soap in it. I empty the water from my aquarium into it, and after I dump it out I rinse it with tap water and then put the new water in it. Always seemed to work for me. Hope this helps a little.
From: CT
8/11/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by CT on August 11, 100 at 19:26:04:
Re: (5404.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions. posted by Carissa on August 11, 100 at 15:53:34:
A) You may not have too much luck cycling with neons as they aren't easy to keep under the best conditions. B) Two links for you: http://faq.thekrib.com/ http://www.bestfish.com/articles.html 1) Leave the stress zymes and stress coats on the shelf. The bacteria that you need to establish in your tank cannot be kept alive in a shipping container (they need oxygen). No matter what anyone tells you -- a fish does not need aloe vera for any reason. 2) Here's the rub: Your fish will still need a normal day/night cycle of about 10 to 12 hours of light. But leaving lights on that long will promote algae (without plants). The thing to do is get some low light plants that are hardy -- and will draw nutrients from the water column (to compete with the algae). Pick up some anubias, java fern, or java moss and tie them to some rocks or driftwood. 3) I think I have the type of filter you're talking about in my 10g. I usually take the filter off the frame and rinse it in warm water once a week and replace the filter every month or so. No need to replcae the frame. 4) I always use two kinds of filter in my tanks -- with one being air driven. Combos I run at the moment look like this: * HOB & UGF * HOB & Sponge filter Too much aeration can cause problems with gas saturation (visable air bubbles on your fish or a condition where your fishes eyes bug out). 5) Wash stuff that isn't alive in hot tap water. Gravel can be rinsed with a garden hose before adding it to the tank. 6) Check your water parameters with a good test kit like AP's master test kit. 7) One bucket should be fine -- keep it clean and free of soap & chemicals. CT
From: Barb
8/11/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by Barb on August 11, 100 at 21:45:22:
Re: (5407.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions. posted by CT on August 11, 100 at 19:26:04:
Dear Carissa and CT, I use 2 buckets... one for clean and one for dirty water. I figure that if you contaminate your bucket with some infectious critter, which isn't killed by hot water (some need bleach to die) and then you fill that bucket with your clean water, you could end up spreading the bad guys to your other tanks. Perhaps, I am being overly cautious. Barb
From: CT
8/11/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by CT on August 11, 100 at 22:37:00:
Re: (5421.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions. posted by Barb on August 11, 100 at 21:45:22:
Walk me through your thought process here... You're taking water out of one tank that may have some kind of *BUG* in it and you're concerned that using the same bucket in multiple tanks will introduce the same bug into different tanks? That means you should also be using separate nets, siphon tubes, airlines, algae scrappers and whatever else for each of your tanks! Egads, most of us would be a** deep in buckets and duplicate paraphernalia! ;-) This system doesn't scale vary well when you get into more than 2 tanks. Or if you're using two buckets and sharing everything else -- you've got some major holes in your intended plan. It's a good idea to use separate equipment in a QT or hospital tank but not very practical for regular tanks. Truth be known -- I use a clear plastic 5g water bottle for the fresh change water. Since I use my old grungy bucket for all kinds of other stuff, I use it only for the old wastewater. But I would be fine using only one bucket under normal circumstances. CT
From: Barb
8/12/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by Barb on August 12, 100 at 01:30:54:
Re: (5428.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions. posted by CT on August 11, 100 at 22:37:00:
Maybe it works ok for me now as I only have 2 tanks in my office and 2 one gal. bowls at home. That's all I have... I'm a beginner. I do use seperate airline tubing when siphoning, seperate nets, no airline (bettas) and I've got no algae... so there!! ;) I guess if I end up going nuts over fish and have tanks and bowls all over my house, then you are right, this anal (am I allowed to say that?) system would be too cumbersome. I guess my approach is more appropriate, as you say, for the care of a hospital tank; which makes sense to me that I would be thinking along those lines, as I have worked much of my life in a hospital, so that is my training and perspective for trying to figure these things out as a newbie. Guess I'll go and buy me another betta tomorrow , throw myself over the 2 tank threshold and throw out one of my buckets! See ya', Barb
From: CT
8/12/00
Subject: Re: New Aquarium Questions.
Posted by CT on August 12, 100 at 05:48:52:
Re: (5432.html) Re: New Aquarium Questions. posted by Barb on August 12, 100 at 01:30:54:
Hope my post didn't come off as a slam. I think you're very knowledgeable and raise a lot of good points. You're posts are also well thought out -- plus you can spell! Did you go to school locally? :-) At any rate, use two buckets if you want -- it just isn't mandatory. CT
From: Trish
8/11/00
Subject: To Quarantine or Not?
Posted by Trish on August 11, 100 at 14:51:59:
I currently have 2 White Clouds in a 20 gallon tank w/ HOB for 2 weeks. The tank has not started cycling, I've tested the water, the White Clouds are just not enough bio-load. I have a 5 gallon tank w/ UGF with 13 one month old White Cloud fry in it. I was considering moving the 13 fry to the big tank with their parents and hopefully putting newly purchased Rasboras in the 5 gallon before moving them to the larger tank. I've read several places about doing this with new fish and since I had the extra tank, thought it sounded like a good idea. The guy at the LFS said he would probably go ahead and put the Rasboras in the big tank with the White Clouds. He felt quarantining was stressful. But I'm concerned about the Rasboras going through cycling. Am I getting some bum advice?
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Re: To Quarantine or Not?
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 21:41:03:
Re: (5401.html) To Quarantine or Not? posted by Trish on August 11, 100 at 14:51:59:
I am a bit confused by your post, but maybe I can give you just a little advise. First of all, if you have "any" fish in the tank at all, it has begun cycling. You may not see a spike now (or at any other time in some cases, but if fish are in the tank producing even minute waste, the bacteria are becoming established. I am not sure as to what answer you want to your question, but when stocking this 20 gallon tank, add only 2 fish per week so as to not overload it and end up killing everyone in there. Whether it be ones from another of your tanks for from the LPS, just do this until the tank is stocked. And I would not move the fry at this point until they are older. If and when the tank does have a spike, they may not be able to withstand it. If you want rasboras, buy two this week and put into the new tank. If everything goes okay during that week, add 2 more. Keep doing this until your tank is stocked. But leave the fry where they are for now. About the only time I use quaratine tanks is if I have an established aquarium and want to add some new fish to it. I don't want the new fish introducing any problems for fish that I have had for a long time. Otherwise, when stocking a new tank, I am careful as to make sure all the fish in the tank I am purchasing from look healthy and have been at the store for at least a week (or even 2 is better). Then you know they have settled down from their move to the pet store. Kick
From: Trish
8/12/00
Subject: Re: To Quarantine or Not?
Posted by Trish on August 12, 100 at 19:54:38:
Re: (5418.html) Re: To Quarantine or Not? posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 21:41:03:
Thanks, you did answer my question. I was concerned that if I didn't see a spike, I would have an issue later, but I am very patient and willing to add fish very slowly - if I never see a spike that would be great. If I can find the Rasboras - no one in town has them right now, I'll put them in the big tank with the adults, two at a time. Thanks!
From: ~deb
8/11/00
Subject: Re: To Quarantine or Not?
Posted by ~deb on August 11, 100 at 20:17:04:
Re: (5401.html) To Quarantine or Not? posted by Trish on August 11, 100 at 14:51:59:
I think the rasboras will be fine in quarantine. I really don't think much fazes them except a bully. Mine went through cycling in may 2g UGF with a betta and an oto, before I knew what cycling was. However I lost the betta. ~deb
From: ~deb
8/11/00
Subject: typo: my not may
Posted by ~deb on August 11, 100 at 20:23:26:
Re: (5411.html) Re: To Quarantine or Not? posted by ~deb on August 11, 100 at 20:17:04:
The cycling I referred to was in June of 1999. : }
From: jennifer
8/11/00
Subject: beta fish tank w/peace lilly plant
Posted by (jhatmtcs.com) jennifer on August 11, 100 at 14:02:31:
Does anyone know where i can get information on how to put the fish tank together for a beta that has a peace lilly?
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Re: beta fish tank w/peace lilly plant
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 14:24:52:
Re: (5393.html) beta fish tank w/peace lilly plant posted by jennifer on August 11, 100 at 14:02:31:
You say tank. Are you wanting to set up a tank or a "vase" with a peace lilly like seen in the stores more recently again. This site does not endorse the betta "vase", but if you want to fix up a tank with a betta, just set it up like you would for any other fish, and put live plants in it. Let me know. If you think you must have a "vase", I will email with the proper way to set it up and "care for the fish". Kick
From: kathy warner
8/13/00
Subject: Re: beta fish tank w/peace lilly plant
Posted by (katiewarnerwebtv.net) kathy warner on August 13, 100 at 17:27:43:
Re: (5394.html) Re: beta fish tank w/peace lilly plant posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 14:24:52:
what is the proper way to set up a betta fish in a vase? i have many vases almost 1 gallon per vase and i'd love to have them all around my house. can you help me out?
From: stuart
8/11/00
Subject: Suggestions?
Posted by (stuart.hambyfallon.com) stuart on August 11, 100 at 10:47:04:
Hey all, does anyone have any good suggestions for a schooling fish in a brightly lit tank with real plants. The fish that are inhabiting the tank are semi aggressive (two kribs, a redtail shark, 4 bloodfins) and hang out mostly on the bottom portions of the tank; I want something that is bright in coloration, that can handle a bright light that will reside in the upper waters. Thanks stu
From: cd
8/11/00
Subject: Re: Suggestions?
Posted by cd on August 11, 100 at 12:31:06:
Re: (5386.html) Suggestions? posted by stuart on August 11, 100 at 10:47:04:
Here's a thought......... http://petfish.net/ff7.htm
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Re: Suggestions?
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 14:28:57:
Re: (5390.html) Re: Suggestions? posted by cd on August 11, 100 at 12:31:06:
Neons are absolutely beautiful in a brightly lit, planted tank. Get a whole school and basically nothing else and see how neat it can be. Neons are not good to start a tank with as they are pretty tempermental about their environment, but if you can keep them, they would be wonderful. Kick
From: alex
8/11/00
Subject: fish had babies--advice sought on overstocking
Posted by (alexisbrunnerhotmail.com) alex on August 11, 100 at 05:35:57:
My mollies and my neons all had babies close to the same time. (I'm not that experienced, so didn't catch that my fish was pregnant.) I now have clearly WAY too many fish in one tank, but currently most of them are all really tiny. I had assumed that most of the babies wouldn't make it, but a few weeks into this, and everybody is healthy and growing. I have been doing frequent partial water changes, and checking water makeup (Ph, nitrates) and everything is okay, everybody looks just great. I've actually never seen my fish look this happy, which seems unusual. However, I know the 1 inch of fish to 1 gallon rule, and know that I have a potential problem. I will try to find someplace which sells fish which will accept 30 healthy baby mollies, but how long can I wait until I have to move them? They are currently about 1 cm long; the neons (15 of them) are a little older, and a little bigger. The only member of the rest of the community tank who does not look to be flourishing is my catfish (1 inch) who has started getting a little pale, and seems to be hiding more than he used to. Any advice would be appreciated.
From: Leigh
8/12/00
Subject: Re: fish had babies--advice sought on overstocking
Posted by Leigh on August 12, 100 at 08:44:44:
Re: (5376.html) fish had babies--advice sought on overstocking posted by alex on August 11, 100 at 05:35:57:
If you can, buy a small 5 gallon tank and move some of the babies. I have a bunch of them in a 5 gallon waiting for them to grow large enough to take to my lfs for a credit.
From: Worried Mommy
8/10/00
Subject: RE: PEACOCK EELS
Posted by (rperezsedona.net) Worried Mommy on August 10, 100 at 21:21:03:
I need some info on these babies! When they eat? What fish they are OK with? ECT< ECT>>>>>>>>>>>
From: Kick
8/12/00
Subject: What Answers I have for you on this eel.
Posted by Kick on August 12, 100 at 13:58:26:
Re: (5369.html) RE: PEACOCK EELS posted by Worried Mommy on August 10, 100 at 21:21:03:
I found this particular species in my encyclopedia. They are usually peaceful. They are more active at twilight and night, and they like to bury themselves in the substrate so a finer substrate is better for them. The chief requirement is dense covering. They eat all types of live food and usually suck up their prey so they are best suited to a species tank. Females are stronger than males and become very thick bodied during spawning. However, spawning has not yet been achieved in an aquarium setting. They do not like real warm temperatures above 82 degrees as at high temps they are more susceptible to disease and don't live as long. The can be kept in both fresh and brackish water. Hope this gives you the anwers you were looking for. Kick
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Re: RE: PEACOCK EELS
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 14:36:14:
Re: (5369.html) RE: PEACOCK EELS posted by Worried Mommy on August 10, 100 at 21:21:03:
I read a post similar to this on Badman's Board. I think you will have to give us the scientific name in order for us to help you. I have looked everywhere (in all my encyclopedias and fish books) and can find no information on a Peacock eel. Let us know the correct name, and maybe we can help you out. Kick
From: Worried Mommy
8/11/00
Subject: Re: RE: PEACOCK EELS
Posted by Worried Mommy on August 11, 100 at 20:33:32:
Re: (5399.html) Re: RE: PEACOCK EELS posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 14:36:14:
That is the correct name of the Eel!
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Re: RE: PEACOCK EELS
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 21:23:50:
Re: (5413.html) Re: RE: PEACOCK EELS posted by Worried Mommy on August 11, 100 at 20:33:32:
That is the correct "common" name for the eel. Most species have "common" names and then they have "scientific" names. Until you give me the "scientific" name, I cannot help you. Kick
From: Barb
8/11/00
Subject: Did some leg work for ya!
Posted by Barb on August 11, 100 at 22:08:48:
Re: (5416.html) Re: RE: PEACOCK EELS posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 21:23:50:
Peacock Eel = Macrognathus siamensis http://www.petsmart.com/articles/article_3667.shtml Barb
From: Kick
8/11/00
Subject: Thanks Barb
Posted by Kick on August 11, 100 at 22:35:35:
Re: (5425.html) Did some leg work for ya! posted by Barb on August 11, 100 at 22:08:48:
Okay, now that I know what I am looking for, maybe I can find something here. But not tonight...it is late and I am just about outta here to the snooze room. The search will begin in the morning. Kick