Petfish.net Message Board Archive No. 12 Part 2

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From: Karla 2/23/00
Subject: Re: Biozyme does not do "the work of fish"

Thanks Jose,I am not quit sure what all that means as this is what I was told was good for starting up a tank.I use it when I first start a tank out and it has always done well for me.Guess that was luck heh.Is that why people get a cloudy fish tank when they first start out? ( I have never had this happen) Is that what cycling is about,so the tank does not get all crazy and cloudy? Thanks Jose for the info,I look forward to more of your help over time.God bless *Karla

From: Jose 2/24/00
Subject: Re: Biozyme does not do "the work of fish"

What it does is temporarily bring down spikes in ammonia/nitrites, but colonization is needed for steady biological filtration. Continuous partial water chages (without vacuuming the gravel or cleaning the filter) are also beneficial in preventing cloudiness or ammonia/nitrite spikes. You'll get all of this jargon with time, don't worry. It's always good to be sincere and admit when we don't know somehting... At least is better than giving out wrong advice left and right like some people here do... Of course neither I nor anyone knows everything! But I try to keep up reading to add new knowledge to my many years of experience in the hobby, and I love helping other people whenever I think I can.
Good luck,
Jose

From: Jose 2/20/00
Subject: Re: How long to cycle a 10 gallon tank?

Hi Kara. If you want to go fishless, here is a site that can give you info on it:
http://www.tomgriffin.com/aquamag/cycling.html
I recently cycled my 180-gal tank the fishless way, with some small variations to the basic method... I started with reagent grade amonium hydroxide (from a laboratory), which is 28-30% concentrated, but ran out. Then I bought clear ammonia at Publix supermarket. You need to purchase ammonia that reads "clear ammonia", without perfumes or additives. A good idea is to shake the bottle before you buy it. A few rapidly-disappearing bubbles are normal, but if it foams, don't buy it. I would assume that your tank would be cycled in about a month. Pay special attention to temperature, it should be 80-82F for proper cycling time. Lower temperatures than these can prolongue the cycling time for very long times!!!
If you're an experienced fishkeeper, you might try cycling your tank with the fish you'd be keeping. Just pay attention to ammonia/nitrite, and implement partial water changes (without cleaning the filter or vacuuming the gravel) as needed. On last Thanksgiving I set up a 10-gal with a pair of rams (known for their susceptibility to poor water quality). The tank cycled in five weeks without any problems. The rams have already more-than double their initial size, and are doing great. If you're not so experienced...danios are great "hardy" fish to cycle your tank. Make sure you don't add but a couple, and don't add any more fish until the cycle is complete (ammonia/nitrite at 0ppm and positive nitrates).
If I can be of any further help, please email me.
Good luck,
Jose

From: amber 2/20/00
Subject: Re: How long to cycle a 10 gallon tank?

The best fish to cycle I tank I have found were danios. For my ten gallon I cycled it with guppies and white clouds, and it took a month or so...It normally takes 4-6 weeks, sometimes longer...I dont know about the chemical cycling though.

From: LJ 2/20/00
Subject: dead mother krib

My female krib died last night. I think that she may have bred before dying but I can't see the cave she laid her eggs in. Her mate seems to be guarding that area. It is a 20 gallon community tank with 12 fish (about 15 inches). There are 3 dwarf gouramis, 2 corydoras, 2 "blue moons", 3 head&tail light tetras, 1 kuhli loach and the one dominant male krib. Should I get him a new mate, even if he already has eggs? Should I wait to make sure there are or are not babies? Should I get two females?(he picked on his mate before) Help!

From: Tom 2/20/00
Subject: Re: dead mother krib

About Kribensis. If your female layed eggs she wuld have been very round in her stomach area before she laid the eggs, and not round after she laid the eggs. So you should have been able to easily see from her shape if she laid eggs. Of course they may or may not be gone now.
I have repeatedly spawned and raised over 50 species of egg laying Cichlids such as Kribensis. Never once has a male raised a spawn alone. So I don't think it's likely yours will.
To me Kribensis is a difficult fish to raise the babies. I'd recommend you breed the Convict Cichlid first to gain experience that help you succeed with a more difficult species like Kribensis.
You can read more details about breeding the Convict at
http://www.aquariumfish.net/advice_how_to_raise_baby_fish.htm
and there is more information about Black Convicts at
http://www.aquariumfish.net/prod_fish_cich_neotropical_convict_black.htm
and about Pink Convicts at
http://www.aquariumfish.net/prod_fish_cich_neotropical_convict_pink.htm
I hope this helps.
Tom

From: LJ 2/21/00
Subject: Re: dead mother krib

Thanks for the help. I really do want to stick with kribs in a community tank. Do you have any suggestions on how to introduce a new female? Is it all right if she is much smaller than the male? Should I try to introduce more than one female?

From: karla 2/20/00
Subject: brine shrimp

I was wondering how easy this was,I would like to raise brine shrimp for my cichlids.Is it hard to do? thanks

From: Tom 2/20/00
Subject: Re: brine shrimp

Raising Brine Shrimp. I've done it and it's not hard. But it's not very efficient.
I had a huge 500 gallon fiber glass tank in my back yard. I found out the brine shrimp need 7 Tablespoons of salt per gallon of water. So I needed 7 x 500 = 3500 Tablespoons of Salt. At 2 Tablespoons per fluid oz. that was 1750 fluid oz. of salt. At 64 fluid oz. per gallon, that was 14 gallons of Salt.
It took many bags of salt. Of course I had to add salt just once. I used water softener salt and it worked fine.
I bought Sanders brand dry brine shrimp eggs. They were expensive but hatched. I sprinkled in a teaspoon of eggs each week. The eggs hatched in a about 36 hours depending on the temperature of the water.
The 500 gallon tank was in the sun so algae grew on the sides and the shrimps ate it. I also experimented with feeding the shrimps yeast used for baking bread and other foods.
Water evaporated from the big tank and I had to top it up every few days with water from the faucet. but I never add more than 10 to 20% fresh water in any one week.
Raising brine shrimp was fun, but in the end turned out to be way more costly and time consuming than just buying the live or frozen brine shrimp.
Tom

From: amber 2/20/00
Subject: Re: brine shrimp

Raising brine shrimp is extremely easy. I've never raised them as feeders though...

From: karla 2/20/00
Subject: firemouth cichlids

I am getting cichlids for my new 29 gallon aquarium.I need to know how many fire mouth I can have in one tank.
thanks
also will I have to remove them when a pair is breading? please email the answers.**karla

From: Jose 2/20/00
Subject: Re: firemouth cichlids

Hi Karla. I've never had firemouth before, but I've read a lot about them (planning on having some in the future). Experts advice to get a group of five or six, and let them pair up, then you can remove the unpaired fish and return them to the LFS or put them in a separate tank. Males and females don't fight (other than occasional picking). If the tank is properly set up (lots of hiding places, etc...) they should be able to breed in the community tank, but the life of other fish will be at risk. Firemouths become extremely aggressive at breeding time (can kill fish twice their size!). They're indeed beautiful fish, and the way they flare their gills is just awsome!!! Remember that these are South American cichlids, and that they like soft slightly acidic water (as opposed to African cichlids).
Good luck,
Jose

From: Tom 2/20/00
Subject: Re: firemouth cichlids

If you get two Firemouths, the stronger one will make the other one miserable. If you have three Firemouths, the strongest will make the other two miserable. With four Firemouths sometimes the dominant fish can't chase the other three all the time. With six Firemouths the aggression is at a minimum. So I recommend at least 6.
If you want to breed Firemouths, you should breed Convicts first. Convicts are much easier to breed, and you'll get good experience that will later help you succeed with Firemouths. There are two color varieties of Convicts. The Black Convict that looks like the original wild fish and the Pink Convict that's a color variety lacking the dark pigments.
Go to
http://www.aquariumfish.net/advice_how_to_raise_baby_fish.htm
and scroll down to the bottom of the page for information about breeding Pink Convicts.
Go to
http://www.aquariumfish.net/prod_fish_cich_neotropical_firemouth.htm
for detailed information about Firemouths.
Good luck,
Tom

From: Karla 2/21/00
Subject: Thank you

Thank you for your help all,I will get the convicts instead.Do I need to buy more than the two pair? I have a 29 gallon tank and will two pairs live in peace in it? thanks again *Karla

From: mike 2/19/00
Subject: irredecent sharks

Does anyone own one of these ? what are the ideal living conditions to keep them happy
I have had one for about a month, and it just got over ick like symptoms, and seems to be doing better
I have been looking for some articles, with no luck.
Would appreciate any info!
thanks

From: Tom Bailey 2/20/00
Subject: Re: irredecent sharks

You can get some information about the Iridescent Shark by clicking on
http://www.aquariumfish.net/prod_fish_wild_catfish_pangasius.htm
hint this fish gets very big. Good Luck.

From: Mike 2/19/00
Subject: Salt

I have been thinking of adding some salt to my tank, because I have been reading some of the benefits
of it, but i was wondering if it would harm my collection.I have a gold gourami, a pearl gourami,
an irradecent shark, a few tetras and a few small algea eaters.
Also, what exactly is the best way to change filter parts such as carbon, ammonia etc. .I have tried changing 1 part
at a time, every 2 weeks, all 3 at once, either way I always lose a fish.What am I doing wrong ?
Bear with me, I'm fairly new so I have a lot of questions..........

From: Jose 2/20/00
Subject: Misconceptions about salt...

Hi. First of all, I'd like to advise you to read on this subject on your own. Advise from this and other boards can be great, but also misleading...
The issue of adding salt to aquariums is a highly debatable one...
The comment about iodine in iodized table salt being poisonous to your fish is false. The amount of iodine in table salt won't kill your fish. Furthermore, iodine is an essential element that's needed for correct functioning of the thyroid gland in fish (and of course, in other organisms as well). Lack of iodine causes goiter (a disease of the thyroid gland). The reason why people tend to stay away from table salt is because of the anticaking additives that it contains, which could be dangerous to fish... I used to use common table salt for many many years while I didn't have aquarium salt at my disposal, and never lost a fish to it!
I personally use salt for therapeutic purposes only (to treat fish sick with certain diseases, not all of them). It's true that salt creates a hypertonic medium which most pathogens can't withstand. But it's also true that salt is an irritant (stimulates production of slime coat in fish), and that some fish are sensitive to it. In your case, your tetras don't like the salt, and so I'd refrain from adding it.
As far as "most fish medications containing salt" is also not true. Most fish medication that your find at your LFS are either antibiotics, antifungals, or antiprotozoans, and don't contain sodium chloride. Examples are Marazyn, Coppersafe, Ich cure, etc, etc...
Just research the topic on your own and don't take advices as the bible, they're just that, advices, suggestions.
Good luck,
Jose

From: Jose 2/20/00
Subject: Re: Salt

Hi. First of all, I'd like to advise you to do some reading on your own. Advise from this and other boards is great, but it can also be misleading...
The issue of adding salt (NaCL) to aquariums is a largely debatable one... Salt is therapeutic, no question about it. It's effective agaist a rather large number of parasites that can invade your aquarium (it creates a hypertonic medium parasites). However, salt is not always indicated for all fish! The comment about "most fish medicine being salt" is totally false! Most fish medications that you find at your LFS are antibiotics, antifungals, and antiprotozoans that don't contain sodium chloride. Examples are Marazyn, Coppersafe, ich medicine, etc... About iodine killing the fish, that's also false. The amount of iodine in the "iodized" table salt is harmless to fish ('been there, done that for many many years). People tend to stay away from table salt because of the anti-caking compounds that are added to it, not because of the iodine. In fact, iodine is necessary for correct functioning of the thyroid gland in fish (and of course, in other organisms as well). Lack of iodine in a fish diet causes goiter (thyroid gland disease). Aquarium products such as Cichlid Vital from Tetra do contain iodine. To be on the safe side, buy aquarium salt (although I can almost guarantee that nothing will happen if you use table salt. I used to use table salt for many years when I didn't have "aquarium" salt at my disposal).
I wouldn't add salt to your tank because tetras are sensitive to salt. They may not die, but they don't like salt in their water. I personally only use salt in my cichlid tank and as a therapeutic resource (to treat sick fish with certain diseases). Livebearers also enjoy salt in their water. The dose recomended by the other respondant (1tsp/5gal of water) is OK.
Again, don't take my word as the bible, and do some reading on your own. I wonder why people give wrong advise when they're not sure what they're talking about....
Good luck,
Jose

From: Tom Bailey 2/20/00
Subject: Re: Salt

Generally aquarium salt is good for most aquarium fish. But don't use table salt which has iodine added and will poison your fish. Add 1 Tablespoon of salt to each 5 gallons of water. So for example you'd add 6 Tablespoons to a 30 gallon aquarium. Salt won't hurt any of the fish you listed.
Salt reduces the number of bacteria and other pathogens in the water. That's why my grandmother used to put 1 teaspoon of salt in a glass of warm water and tell me to garble, when I had a sore throat.
A lot of aquarium medications are mostly salt! Go to
http://www.aquariumfish.net/advice_recommended_treatment.htm
and scroll down to the information about adding salt.

From: Tom Bailey 2/20/00
Subject: Re: Salt

Generally aquarium salt is good for most aquarium fish. But don't use table salt which has iodine added and will poison your fish. Add 1 Tablespoon of salt to each 5 gallons of water. So for example you'd add 6 Tablespoons to a 30 gallon aquarium. Salt won't hurt any of the fish youm listed.
Salt reduces the number of bacteria and other pathogens in the water. That's why my grandmother used to put 1 teaspoon of salt in a glass of warm water and tell me to garble, when I had a sore throat.
A lot of aquarium medications are mostly salt! Go to
http://www.aquariumfish.net/advice_recommended_treatment.htm
and scroll down to the information about adding salt.

 
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