Topic: My Mission Impossible

[ShieldWolf]

Better concentration of light aimed/focused at the tank?

[Essabee]

The glass ordered finally arrived, badly cut and with sharp edges. The glass for the sump after being ground to remove sharp edges has been silicone pasted and what better place to do it in but inside the tank to which it will act as the dedicated sump. There it will out of the way while I work on the plumbing, reflooring, and repainting the broom cabinet to convert it into the sump cabinet. I plan to put all the MH ballast (5 of the GLMT and 5 of the incomparable) in that cabinet. Remember I have an eight inch diameter fan connected on one side to the GLMT (and through it to the Incomparable) and the sump cabinet.

Size 42" X 18" X 18" but I intend to keep the water level at 12".

[attachment deleted by mean old server people]

[Essabee]

Can a screw, screw up your working? Yes! I found that out the hard way.

The MH fittings that I had acquired online for the GLMT had very good looks, light and were most probably sourced from China, manufactured to American standard. The bulb holders were in pairs for the two ended bulbs neatly built ceramic that were attached to the body of the fittings – with screws.

The holders felt loose to touch and that I thought was due to loosening of the screws from the vibrations of transit. One of the holder had even come off and broken, I had complained about it and the seller had couriered the replacement promptly. Not expecting any problems, I tried to tighten them using a driver. It was then I found out that some of the screws were too short and just made it to the screw housing of the body of the fittings. I needed longer screws.

Taking one of the screws to match the thread, I searched all the places of the town for the size I needed, I was willing to accept even longer ones for I could always trim them to size, but the thread had to be the same. The thread stumped all my sources as it was American standard and the screws used in this country were usually of British standard. The thread had to be matched; the screw housings were raised tubular structures made of what looked like antimony; too fragile to be tapped to change the thread. The other alternative was using a slimmer, longer screw and then drill through the housing and using a nut on the outside of the body of the fitting. An unacceptable alternative, to be accepted only as a last resort, for it would open out unprotected spots which would corrode in the high moisture atmosphere of the aquarium top, with time. Unless I could match the thread, I was screwed.

A friend was going to Kolkata (Calcutta) to get some supplies for his business and offered to get me the screw if it was available there. Beggars cannot choose, I put the work on GLMT on hold, and decided to wait for the screw.

It finally arrived yesterday and now the MH are wired and tested and working. My heart is working too, and I now intend to finish the rest of the work

[ShieldWolf]

Good of your friend to help you out of a screwy situation.

[Essabee]

When I decided to add the GLMT, I also decided to reorganise the wiring of all my tanks. All the wires that lead to the tank that I have named “Incomparable” went through the GLMT so I was forced to rewire that tank. This requirement caused quite a delay in completion of the GLMT.

My scheme of reorganisation of the wiring comes from the necessity of relaxing my very strict routine chores. I have decided to use timers for the lights, CO2, and aeration. I have decided to divide the light wires – part of lights will have backup from the inverter – the rest will only be powered when the generator comes on for the longer power outages. All the heaters have to be supplied by a power line without any backup. This means that there are five separate phase lines with one common neutral going to every tank, and another phase line for the solenoid of the CO2.

The six phases:-

1)   Red wire – No backup power line – For the heaters.
2)   Blue wire – Generator backup and photoperiod timer – 2/3 of the lights in each tank.
3)   White wire – Inverter, generator, & photoperiod timer – 1/3 of the lights in each tank.
4)   Green wire – Inverter, generator constant line – For the filter power-heads.
5)   Yellow wire – Inverter, generator & night timer – For the aerations.
6)   Brown wire – Inverter, generator & CO2 timer – For the CO2.

I shall need just 2 timers for this scheme to be possible. I shall use the timers only to run three relays. This will keep the loads on the timer low. The photoperiod timer shall run two separate relays one to connect the blue wires on its on period and the other relay connecting the white wires. The CO2 timer will run a single relay; it will connect the green wire to the yellow wire through NC and the brown wire through the NO.

[Essabee]

The wiring is finished. The ballast of both the tanks, GLMT and the Incomparable, are in the sump room. You see the fan which will keep the 2 tanks cool.

[attachment deleted by mean old server people]

[Essabee]

The GLMT is finally a tank. The viewing glass is in position and I will only have to wait for the curing to take place before testing it with water. Meanwhile I must work to complete the sump and the timer system. I shall also have to wire the sump room for lights and the sump pumps, heaters, aerators etc.

[Mollielover]

Wow! looks great Joy!

[Essabee]

I just filled it up with water to just below the sump overflow level. Now I will spend the next 24 hours with my fingers crossed (for the entire period when I am not working on the sump).

Wish me well.

[Ppulcher]

My fingers are crossed (virtually) for a succesful test!