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21
Aquarium Equipment / Re: Filter replacement
« Last post by Guppyguy on April 18, 2013, 12:33:32 PM »
Well, I'm no filter expert, but as long as the fish is fine with it I guess it's okay. No disadvantages that I know of(except for buying the filter :hihi: )
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Aquarium Equipment / Filter replacement
« Last post by Boven on April 18, 2013, 04:51:40 AM »
I love my oscar, Bubba, to pieces, but every now and then he frustrates me by doing something kinda stupid.  I'm not sure why he does it, but every couple months I discover that he's somehow pulled the intake tube to the canister filter away from the glass.  The suction cups are still attached, he's just worked the tube out of the clip thingies.

About a month ago when I got home from work and was about to feed Bubba, I noticed that the 2nd filter on his tank, an Aquaclear 70, wasn't working because the intake tube on it had been shoved up so far that the impeller wasn't actually drawing water into the filter.  I reseated the tube and it started working again, but since then, I've come in a couple times to find it flat out not running.  It's plugged in but the impeller isn't spinning.  My first thought was to pull out the impeller and clean it and the hole it sits in, just in case there was some sand or something in causing troubles.  It was actually pretty clean, though.  Letting it sit for 15 minutes or so then plugging it back in would get things going again.  I'm guessing it's some issue with the motor overheating.  Last night it happened again and I decided to not plug it back in at all.  I don't want to risk the thing catching fire or something.

I'd like to get another Aquaclear since I've been happy with the one on my 38 gallon and had no real issues with the one on Bubba's tank until now.  I'm wondering, though, whether I should move up to an AC110.  Bubba's tank is a 60 gallon and has a canister filter on it.  I'm just kind of paranoid and have an HoB on all my tanks in addition to the canister just so there's a backup in case the canister fails.

Would there be any significant benefit to moving up to the larger HoB since it'll still be a 'backup' filter and not doing the bulk of the filtration?  Aside from costing more and the minor inconvenience of having to cut the plastic strip on the canopy to fit a larger filter, would there be any disadvantages to the 110 as opposed to the 70 it'll be replacing?
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Planted Tanks / Re: Why those additional pigments?
« Last post by Essabee on April 17, 2013, 09:29:15 PM »
What I had written then was pure speculative thinking - but read this:-

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Bettas / Re: You know you're a betta addict when... (revival!)
« Last post by Guppyguy on April 17, 2013, 06:40:45 PM »
When you try to make up as many words as possible with the word "Betta" in them(or species names wordplay...I'm having a splendens time{splendid})
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Bettas / Re: You know you're a betta addict when... (revival!)
« Last post by Guppyguy on April 17, 2013, 03:24:03 PM »
When you have a nightmare about Sasquatch,causing you to wake up at 3:00 in the morning, and check on your betta(s)...and in the process waking everyone up...
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Bettas / Re: You know you're a betta addict when... (revival!)
« Last post by Snapple on April 17, 2013, 12:36:41 PM »
lol
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Cleaned the filter and took out the carbon rocks as well.

I bought MULTI CURE and added it 2 nights ago. I lost one fish that night (it had fin rot? as well) but as for the rest - the white spots have already started to clear up!!! :D

I noticed my temp was down to 24 so raised it to 26 which is apparently the top for the fishies I hav...hopefully that quickens the cycle for the ICH..

Ive also taken out all my ornaments and boiled them which I read to do on another website...

Looking good so far  :)

Thankyou all so much for your help!!!  :-*
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Have you cleaned the filter? There must be quite a load of rotting food on its filter media. Clean those media by washing in conditioner treated water.

Continue with  the medicines(PIMAFIX & MELAFIX) for a week; use both together. Raise the temperature to 30C if you can. The stones - if they caused anything, is history and removing them would not right the matter- so retaining them would be only for looks. Do not worry about the Ph as most fishes purchased locally are conditioned to the local Ph. Continue with frequent water changes for two weeks; then bring down the frequency to one 50% water-change per week (this is to be the routine).

You will have losses but do not lose heart. Nothing good happens to the aquarium fast - it takes time and patience.
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Ive just had a read of Ich disease and it seems to be the culprit... I have just read something about finding jelly like substance in the gravel..I found some in the plants...

I have a few that dont seem to be infected at the moment... are they ok to stay in the tank? its just my second tank is full of mollie fry atm and I dont have an extra heater and filter

sorry for all the questions lol
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the tank is cycled and is approx 6mnths old.. never had a problem before.. I always do 25% water change weekly

Ive looked up ich and it looks exactly like that the only difference is my fish have what looks like rotting fins on the ends :s I will get some white spot treatment this arvo and start that!
should I continue with the antibacterial treatment for a week?
Ive cleaned the gravel and filter and have added biostart, safe start, and aquarium salt today as I lost my baby bristlenose over night :(

the person that was looking after the tank told me she went to the creek and got some rocks and added them straight in... could this play a part in causing the problem?

Id say the cloudiness was from overfeeding as Its back to normal now Ive cleaned it well... should I raise the temp in the tank while treating for ich or leave it where it is in case its bacterial as well?

thanks
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