PLEASE READ

[55gSW]

Thought it might be a good idea to have a handy reference for some of the abbreviations and terms common to the saltwater hobby. Please feel free to add to the list!

LR = Live Rock
LS = Live Sand
LFS = Local Fish Store
FO = Fish Only (refers to type of tank)
FOWLR = Fish Only With Live Rock
DSB = Deep Sand Bed
BB = Bare Bottom (the tank, not you!)
CC = Crushed Coral
pH = the alkalinity or acidity of the water
PH = Power Head
HOB = Hang On Back (type of filter)
NO = Normal Output (lighting, the type that comes with the hood)
VHO = Very High Output (lighting)
PC = Power Compact (lighting)
MH = Metal Halide (lighting)
SPS = Small Polyped Stoney (coral)
LPS = Large Polyped Stoney (coral)
RO = Reverse Osmosis (water purifying system)
BBS = Baby Brine Shrimp
GPH = Gallons Per Hour
WPG = Watts Per Gallon
DOC = Dissolved Organic Compounds
BTA = Bubble Tip Anemone
SG - Specific gravity. Refers to the salinity of water
Kalkwasser/Kalk - German for calcium hydroxide solution or limewater
RR - Reef ready (Tank is pre-drilled with overflows and such)
DI - Deionisation, type of water purification
RO/DI - Combonation of both Reverse Osmosis and Deionisation
CB = this one is tough as there are several things that use the same abbreviation. Depending on the context of what is written, it can mean: Captive Bred, or Copperband Butterfly (a type of fish), or Coral Banded (a type of shrimp) or Coral Beauty (a type of fish).

HUFA's = Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acids. All marine fish require some of this in their diets as opposed to saturated fats which they cannot digest. This is why it is a bad idea to feed lionfish freshwater feeders like goldfish. Freshwater fish are loaded with saturated fats which marine fish cannot digest. This will cause nutritional deficencies and liver problems down the road.



Nano = a small saltwater tank usually under 20 gallons.

Pods = small shrimp-like creatures within the tank, most are benefical. Refers to copepods, amphipods.

Refugium = any area within the tank, or located outside the tank  (connected by tubing and pumps), that is seperated from the main tank where small creatures, like pods, can reproduce without predation. The offspring are then spread from the refugium into the main tank where they can be consumed by the fish/corals. The word is often shortened to "fuge".

Pod Piles = refers to small mounds of LR or rubble that is tightly packed in the main tank. The pods can find refuge within these mounds and breed without being eaten by the fish or inverts within the tank.

Sump = another tank or container often below the main tank connected by tubing and pumps where equipment is located (filters, skimmers, heater, etc.)

Protein Skimmer = a device used in saltwater tanks to reduce DOC's. Works something like this...DOC's have a positive and a negative side. The positive side is attracted to air and the negative side is attracted to water. Inside the main tube of a skimmer you have a mixture of tiny bubbles and water. The DOC's will attach to the air bubbles, they will then be lifted out of the water by the bubbling action and be deposited into a collection cup. The effectiveness of this is dependent on how long the air bubbles are in contact with the water. There must be enough time for the DOC's to be attracted to and attach to the air bubble. Most saltwater tanks should have a skimmer, but small ones often don't, relying instead on water changes to maintain water quality. Also known as a foam fractionator.

Reef = any size tank that contains corals.

Frag = a small piece of coral that has been broken off or cut off of the main colony, often on purpose. Many corals are propagated this way, and  when you do this, it is called fragging.

Nori = dried seaweed often fed to herbivores like tangs. This can be bought in your local grocery store, often in the Asian section.

Cyano = cyanobacteria, a organisim that is both an algae and a bacteria. Often found in young tanks, usually the result of low flow areas and too many nutrients within the tank. Can also show up when lighting has been changed from one type to another.

Salt creep = the unwanted effect of residual salt ending up on hoods, the outside of filters, tubes, etc. Made worse by airstones (bubblers). Can cause damage to items if not cleaned off regularly.

Kelvin rating = the rating light bulbs are given that show the spectrum of the light emitted by the bulb. Example: 10,000k. This is a white light that mimics natural daylight. Actinic bulbs which have a rating of 4400k give off a blue light. For a freshwater planted tank you would want a more yellow light, in the 6900k range.

Curing = the process of allowing LR to have a die-off period. Most LR will have this happen as many organisms cannot tolerate being out of the water for the time it takes to ship the rock. Sponges are especially notorious for dying off as they cannot be exposed to air. If your LFS has kept the rock during this process then they will often sell the rock as being "fully cured".

Mariculture/Aquaculture = refers to the business of captive breeding/raising marine fishes, propagating corals and anemones in captivity, or the natural seeding of "man-made" LR in ocean waters.

Pest anemones = undesirable small anemones that are quick to reproduce and can often reach plague proportions. They are unsightly and will also sting nearby corals damaging them. The most common of these is aiptasia....check here for ID...  http://www.nsm.buffalo.edu/Bio/burr/gemma.htm . Another less common pest is the majano anemone...check here for ID....  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemoniafaqs.htm .



Book List: "The New Marine Aquarium" by Michael S. Paletta
                "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by Robert Fenner

Okay, so this isn't a book but rather an on-line magazine that has tons of wonderful information...it's free too! You can also check out their archived issues   www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i4/TOCv1i4/TOCv1i4.htm

Here is a link for a great seahorse site   www.seahorse.org

Picture ID of some of the creatures in our tanks     http://melevsreef.com/id/

Check your local tap water here....  
http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

Can't think of anything else at the moment!

[Fish_man]

unless you have a very specific question this link should suffice in answering any questions about compatability between your marine fish (and the ones you are planning on keeping with them)



http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/compatibility_chart.cfm -
compatability charts link

this link (below) has some excellent choices for marine beginners (courteosy of LIVEAQUARIA.COM


http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scateg.cfm?siteid=21&pCatId=1926&TopCatId=1926



 

[Fish_man]

alright, for a FW Dip, use it only when necessary because it can stress out the fish.

1. take the fish out of the main tank AFTER making a freshwater tank with the same params. (minus the salt).
2. place the fish in the FW for about 5-10 minutes or until the fish becomes stressed. (whichever comes first).
3. return to saltwater (the cup you used to remove the fish for a few minutes)
4. repeat 2-3X as needed.

(thats the way i do mine, if anybody does it differently please feel free to post.

[ealvarez]

this should give you some nice ideas

http://www.reeferrocks.com/DIY/index.htm

im going for the mound one or 3 mounds

[Fish_man]

Please, before posting a question, search our sight to see if it hasn't already been asked.  There are a few questions that get asked quite often.  Most likely, the questions listed below have already been answered on this forum, and can be found via a search:  

"i want to get some seahorses"
"nano tanks"
"what will live in this size tank"
:lighting:
"filters"
"stocking guidlines"

hint:  a search can easily be done using the Search link up at the top of the forum.  Enter in your key words and allow the software to search for you.

[Flobex.com]

http://melevsreef.com/ here is a wonderfdul site that is very informative! you can click on any picture, and it wqill give you info on that animal! (ou need to turn off your popup blocker).

[Herbert]

Here is a site that will explain easily answered questions and it has a helpful stocking guide:

http://www.bestfish.com/saltg.html

[clevername]

I think this might be a usefull link to have around here.  I just stumbled upon it.  enjoy

http://www.marineandreef.com/Info/lightingchart_hood.html